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The Nest Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Nest

L › R R › L A › Z

	Birds on Parade S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	End of the Beginning, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flight of the Escobird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kestrel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Kissing and Killing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lifeblood S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Love, Death and Robots S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Natural Born Killers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shriek S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Shrike S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	1,428 ft	435 m
GPS:	43.9927, -71.65781 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,875 total · 93/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Nov 1, 2021
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. Details

Tread lightly, carry in and carry out, and maintain the land in its natural state.

Description

This is a delightful little nook that is about 100 ft above the east gully trail and about 100 ft below the right end of the Alchemy Wall. It's perhaps a little inconvenient to get to or perhaps a nice way to get away from the masses... For now.

I fully expect this out of the way hidey-hole to become quite popular. There are a handful of routes open right now, a hard closed project and room for a couple more lines at some point. Slabs and steeps with grades from 5.9 to 5.11+ (though the project will kick that up considerably when it goes).

Care should be taken concerning a few things. The access, either rappelling in from Alchemy or ascending the dirt gully require skills that might not be in every sport climber's repertoire. Be careful out there and seek instruction if needed. When leaving The Nest, rappelling the fixed line is rerecommended. Also, as the Alchemy Wall sees more traffic there is a danger of items falling from above, down into The Nest. Might want to wear a helmet.

Getting There

Approach via the pink tagged trail up the east gully. When you get to the tip top of that gully you are standing at the Bird Murder wall. "The Nest" sub-area is accessed via a narrow dirt gully near the center of the wall with a fixed rope (Not there July 2024- see comment, R Hall, Admin.) running down. Ascend this rope (best to use a grigri or an ascender as the gully is sketchy).

OR.... If you find yourself at the Alchemy Wall it is possible to rappel down into The Nest (with a 60m rope) from the far right end. Be very careful if you choose this option so you might avoid injuring climbers below. Basically if you are belaying on The Alchemist the big drop behind you goes down to The Nest.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Nest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 20 ● Birds on Parade Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 17 ● Flight of the Escobird Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● Love, Death and Robots Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 20 ● Kissing and Killing Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● The End of the Beginning Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 37 ● Shrike Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 44 ● Natural Born Killers Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 6 ● Kestrel Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 13 ● Shriek Sport