5.13a/b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Lee Hansche 11/24/21|
|Page Views:||486 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Nov 24, 2021|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
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Anyone who gazes upon this section of rock will find it beautiful and intriguing. Lifeblood is technical, powerful and puzzling all in equal measure. It holds some of my favorite face climbing moves I’ve ever done. It was a great test of my route development skill set and it wasn’t so easy to climb once I had it equipped either. Please enjoy it. It is one of my favorite routes at Russell.
The majority of the route climbs a stunning 15 degree overhanging orange wall. Some difficult (to figure out and to execute) moves between bolts 2 and 4 get you in the mode. There is a notch-ledge to the left about halfway through the steep climbing which offers either a good shake or a no hand rest depending on how you play it. I went with a full ledge rest on the FA so don’t be shy to milk it if you need it. After resting up move down and over to the right into an undercling and tackle the rest of the steep climbing. After an absolutely excellent sequence of moves it will become apparent that you need to move left to the arete… but where to do it? Once on the arete climb along it reaching over right to clip one last bolt on the face before committing to, and continuing up, the slab for a short way to the anchor.
The long steep orange face on the left side of The Nest sub-area. Currently the left most bolt line at the cliff. Right up the strength of the wall.