All Locations > International > Europe > Sweden > Kullaberg > S Coast

Stenstugorna Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Stenstugorna

L › R R › L A › Z

	Den Sorte Diedre (The Dihedral Type) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Direttissima T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Polyteknisk Kravlegård (Polytechnic Crawlspace) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Show Biz T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Standardruten T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Östryggen (East Ridge) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	52 ft	16 m
GPS:	56.29937, 12.45109 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,592 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Ian M on Jun 14, 2021
Admins:	Michael Sullivan, Ian M, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. Details

Kullaberg is a nature reserve. Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. The protected areas extend 200 meters inland and 50 meters out to sea. Also use extra care accessing neighboring areas. Camping in the reserve is prohibited except at the designated site by the light house parking lot (8 tents maximum). For more information see Regulations here:
lansstyrelsen.se/skane/beso…

Description

South coast.

Stenstugorna (the stone cottages) is a small south-facing wall by the sea with two small caves. There are several trad routes from 5.5 to 5.11; the more difficult ones start in the caves. There are numerous options for building anchors, but the easiest is to sling the big block at top and extend to the lip.

Getting There

Park in large lot before the road ends at the light house. Follow path from lot south past designated camping area through forest, across wooden planks. Continue down hill through gate and turn right (west). Stenstugorna is the next wall toward the lighthouse from Åkersberget. Follow trail west another ~200 m. Either scramble down to base of the wall here, or continue ~50 m further then left to overlook. Rap from here, or scramble down either the west side (easier) or east side to the base.