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Empty Handed Coyote Bouldering

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Routes in Empty Handed Coyote

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Empty Handed Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4

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Elevation:	2,058 ft	627 m
GPS:	34.74208, -98.74953 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	594 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Miles Johnson on May 18, 2021
Admins:	Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

Empty Handed Coyote is a varied technique Crack on the northern slope just east of the ridge on Sunset Peak’s northenmost peak just south of HWY 49.

Start on bomber hands, work into irregular fists, and then find an armbar and foot sequence to get to the traverse and Topout moves.

Lead on trad with a BD3, two 4s, one 5, and a 6 for full protection or just take the 5 & 6 for the less secure parts. For belay anchor up top BD4 & 5 and/or green and red totem will make a solid rope built anchor 15’ back from the ledge you can extend with the rope. Closer to edge are small boulders with less ideal placements.

Getting There

(34.7420941, -98.7495750)

Park one parking pullout east of The Bird Trap parking or one parking pullout west of Western Bacon Steezburger. Walk back east down the blacktop 100-200 yds and then head up the eastern slope on elk trails. If you head straight into the woods from the parking pullout the elk trails will take you across the northern face and some
Bushwhacking is required to get to Lottery Ticket Wall, Empty Handed Coyote, and Yellow Snake Hotel And Saloon. For these climbs on the eastern slope head farther east than you’d think and slide back up on easier clearer terrain.