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The Cleft Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Cleft

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blue Eyes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Brap Machine Paradise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Buick Repairs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Dream Machine, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	John Cena Memorial Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Melarkey Street S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Paiute Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Splooty S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Steve S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	7,813 ft	2,381 m
GPS:	41.65854, -117.54267 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,355 total · 108/month
Shared By:	James Garrett on Nov 8, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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The Great Cleft

The Cleft is easily spotted on the approach drive to Hinkey Summit. The wall is generally lower angle (especially at the top), has pretty good rock quality, is pleasantly pocketed, and contains numerous moderate 400 foot bolted sport climbs. Combine all this with a quick walk off and it can be quite easy to climb many of these multi-pitch routes in a single day. Due to it's west-southwest exposure, the Cleft gets from sun mid-morning until late afternoon.

Getting There

From downtown Winnemucca, drive to Melarkey Street and turn north (this road eventually turns into Hwy 95) for about 22 miles. Turn right at the Sinclair gas station (essentially the last stop for beer, snacks, gas, and a toilet). Follow Hwy 290 northeast for about 18 miles until you reach the town of Paradise Valley, a very pleasant little cowboy town. At the north end of town, turn right at the T. Cross the small bridge and immediately take a left (north) onto the Hinkey Summit Road. Follow this road north for 13.1 miles until you reach a hairpin corner in an aspen grove (pavement ends after 3 miles). Park here or 1/10th of a mile back in a small pullout on the side of the road.

The hiking "trail" varies from faint to relatively well-defined, depending on the season. It begins in on the aspen grove corner and heads east towards the giant cleft wall. You have to pass through 2 drainages to get to the base of the wall. See the overview map for a general hiking trail route.

Great camping is available 3 miles past Hinkey Summit (almost 8000 feet) at the Forest Service operated Lye Creek Campground.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Cleft

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● Melarkey Street Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● Paiute Pockets Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Splooty Sport, TR, Alpine
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 6 ● The Dream Machine Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 6 ● John Cena Memorial Route Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Blue Eyes Sport, Alpine 5 pitches