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Elevation: 7,813 ft 2,381 m
GPS: 41.65854, -117.54267
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Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 8, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen

The Great Cleft Suggest change

The Cleft is easily spotted on the approach drive to Hinkey Summit. The wall is generally lower angle (especially at the top), has pretty good rock quality, is pleasantly pocketed, and contains numerous moderate 400 foot bolted sport climbs. Combine all this with a quick walk off and it can be quite easy to climb many of these multi-pitch routes in a single day. Due to it's west-southwest exposure, the Cleft gets from sun mid-morning until late afternoon.

Getting There Suggest change

From downtown Winnemucca, drive to Melarkey Street and turn north (this road eventually turns into Hwy 95) for about 22 miles. Turn right at the Sinclair gas station (essentially the last stop for beer, snacks, gas, and a toilet). Follow Hwy 290 northeast for about 18 miles until you reach the town of Paradise Valley, a very pleasant little cowboy town. At the north end of town, turn right at the T. Cross the small bridge and immediately take a left (north) onto the Hinkey Summit Road. Follow this road north for 13.1 miles until you reach a hairpin corner in an aspen grove (pavement ends after 3 miles). Park here or 1/10th of a mile back in a small pullout on the side of the road. 

The hiking "trail" varies from faint to relatively well-defined, depending on the season. It begins in on the aspen grove corner and heads east towards the giant cleft wall. You have to pass through 2 drainages to get to the base of the wall. See the overview map for a general hiking trail route.

Great camping is available 3 miles past Hinkey Summit (almost 8000 feet) at the Forest Service operated Lye Creek Campground.  

9 Total Climbs

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Location: The Cleft Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Cleft

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Melarkey Street
Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Paiute Pockets
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Splooty
Sport, TR, Alpine
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
The Dream Machine
Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
John Cena Memorial Route
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Blue Eyes
Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Melarkey Street
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
Paiute Pockets
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Splooty
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR, Alpine
The Dream Machine
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
John Cena Memorial Route
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
Blue Eyes
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Cleft »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

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