Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Dream Machine
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in The Cleft
|
|
Blue Eyes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Brap Machine Paradise S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Buick Repairs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dream Machine, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
John Cena Memorial Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Melarkey Street S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Paiute Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Splooty S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Steve S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 41.65854, -117.54267 |
| FA: | Matt Sewall, September 2022 |
| Page Views: | 652 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Sewall on Sep 9, 2022 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Description
3 pitches of fun climbing followed by a tedious scramble to a wild "Cleft crossing" moment that involves bridging a 40ft drop. Routes begins to the left of the cave in the center of the wall. None of the climbing is incredibly sustained although a couple individual moves down low might pose some challenges.
Pitch 1: 10c, 30m
Climb up slightly off-vertical rock varied by short slightly overhanging kickbacks. I used some variety of tiny crimps, rock-over moves, and creativity to reach extended period of easy climbing to anchors (but really anything may work). The upper portion of the pitch is super fun although somewhat easy and runout.
Pitch 2: 10a, 30m
Easy and somewhat runout slab climbing lead to a headwall with great rock quality, a telephone hold, and deep mystery pockets.
Pitch 3: 5.8 35m
Continue easy slab climbing until gaining arete to pass over a roof. From here, follow bolts trending right to anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.6 / 4th class / wtf
30m of 4th class scrambling (with 2 bolts along the way) - aim for the gap in the Cleft at the top of the wall. Bridge the wild chasm, clip a bolt, and commit to crossing. Anchor is 5m above on a large ledge.
2 Comments