Blue Eyes

Overview: Classic route up a proud portion of the cleft. This route shows the possibilities in the steeper portions of the cleft and is in some of the highest quality rock in the area. Cruxes are generally not sustained and route finding is straightforward with enough bolts to guide the way.

Pitch 1: 5.10b 30m
Climb ramp and follow third class holds right for nearly 10 meters to first bolt near the end of the ledge / ramp. Follow a couple bolts straight and after 3rd bolt head up steep headwall on large holds to reach bolted anchor ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.10d 17m
The money pitch - traverse left off belay and gain a large flake. Then fire a boulder problem through 3 more bolts utilizing cool right hand pockets and various left hand edges. Take a standing rest and then continue up incut edges and pockets to reach a final traverse, belay on top of the pillar.

Pitch 3: 5.10a 17m
Climb slab through interesting featured rock. Cresting a bulge after initial easier climbing is the crux, then follow bolts to another anchor ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.7 35m
Fun easy climbing up large holds and rolling rock. Not much to say about this other than you can likely link with pitch 3.

Pitch 5: 5.10a 35m
Similar fun easy climbing up large holds until reaching 10 ft vertical headwall where holds thin. After headwall scramble to summit anchor.

Descent: Equipped for rappel with a 70m rope (skip pitch 2 anchor) but walk off is more logical choice. 60m rope will not work for rappelling

Center of cleft up the large headwall. Can be reached by walking left of Paiute Pockets through a narrow slot. Climbing starts by traversing right along ledge / shelf on 3rd class rock over chossy overhang. 2nd pitch ends at top of obvious pillar 50m off the ground.

14 QuickDraws