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The Overlook Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Overlook

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beer Goggles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	I Saw the Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Living Remotely S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Look Before You Leap S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Look of the Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lookie-loo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lookout! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	One Last Look S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Over It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Overpressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Overseer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Three's Company S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Elevation:	9,313 ft	2,839 m
GPS:	39.51825, -105.39656 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,515 total · 127/month
Shared By:	Monty on Sep 29, 2020
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

The Overlook is a small crag that sits at the very top of Staunton Rocks. I like to call it the "Anarchy Wall of Staunton," as the routes are short but pack a punch. The climbs are all bolted with the exception of Three's Company, where a #3 Camalot is required at the top. The routes are slightly overhung and have stunning views of Lion's Head and Mount Evans Wilderness. This is a great crag to visit if The Dungeon is too crowded or if you've climbed everything there and you're looking for something new. The wall gets shade until 2:30pm or so, but some of the upper routes remain shady all day with the help of some large trees. Bring a helmet as the routes are new and still cleaning up. It takes ~10 minutes to get to this crag from the upper part of The Dungeon.

If you like this area, consider buying the Rakkup guide to Staunton. All proceeds from that guide go toward new routes at Staunton.

Left-to-right route List:

The Overseer 11a (sport)
I Saw the Stars 5.11c (sport)
Overpressure 10d (sport)
Look Before You Leap 11b (sport)
Lookout! 11b (sport)
Beer Goggles 11b (sport)
Three's Company 12b/c (sport but need 1x #3 Camalot up high)
Look of the Devil 11b (sport)
Lookie-loo 12a (sport)
One Last Look 11a (sport)
Living Remotely 12b (sport)
Over It 12d (sport)

My favorites are the Overseer, Lookout!, and Living Remotely.

Getting There

From the Staunton Rocks Kiosk: follow the climbing access trail (CA) to the base of the Meadow Dome. Turn left up the gully and follow the trail until you see a sign for The Dungeon, Tan Corridor, and Marmot Tower climbing areas. Follow the trail towards The Dungeon and Marmot Tower. Once you are at the Dungeon, continue up the well-made but steep trail to the Marmot Tower. When you get to the base of the Marmot Tower, skirt the southern flank (lowest part of the wall) to the left, and follow a nice trail to the base of another cliff. This is the Back 40. The trail will split, take the right turn to switchback and right eventually gaining a steep screefield. The first climb you'll see is Over It which is characterized by steep, left-leaning gator skin. The rest of the climbs start at the top of the screefield.

From the Dungeon: walk to the upper Dungeon. Once you are past Implements of Destruction (5.10 warm-up), look for a cairned exit on your left. This will take you to the upper part of the Marmot Tower trail. Follow the trail to the base of the Marmot Tower. Once at the base of the Marmot Tower, skirt the southern flank (lowest part of the wall) to the left, and follow a nice trail to the base of another cliff. This is the Back 40. The trail will split, take the right turn to switchback and right eventually gaining a steep screefield. The first climb you'll see is Over It which is characterized by steep, left-leaning gator skin. The rest of the climbs start at the top of the screefield.

Note: I haven't had any issues getting my dog up here who is 50 lbs, but I could see the scree being challenging for really big/small dogs.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Overlook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● The Overseer Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 13 ● Lookout! Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Lookie-loo Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Living Remotely Sport