All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Barker Dam Area

No Falls Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in No Falls Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dental Hygiene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groover McTuber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Hand Lotion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	No Falls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	One Fall TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	R.D. Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stand Or Fall TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Yosemite Falls T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,302 ft	1,311 m
GPS:	34.02934, -116.14453 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,360 total · 56/month
Shared By:	Sean on Nov 4, 2019
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

nps.gov/jotr/parknews/dam_v…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

North-facing wall that gets shade most of day. It sits next to the trail just before the dam. There's a big flat area at the left end of the wall, but need to scramble across the top of big boulders to access the routes further in across the face. The walkoff to climber's right has brief exposure and cuts back to touch down near Dental Hygiene, as in back into the same rocky gap that runs along the base of the routes. Could walk off the south side of the big formation too, down the southwest ledges and boulders, but would be a longer walk back around to the north side routes. Couple of moderates on that south side too, requiring scrambling and tunneling to get to their pit start. Overall, there are cracks ranging from 5.8 to 5.11a. Could also set up couple of short kiddie routes at the left end of the north side with ample flat ground. A tractor cart to move boulders (presumably for trail renovations) is stored at that end a few steps away from the wall, as of 3 Nov 2019.

Getting There

Park at Barker Dam paved lot. Walk in northward via main Barker Dam trail. No Falls would be the last big rock formation left of the trail before Lakeside Rock to the right and then the dam itself. It has a prominent high roof in its middle.