Namesake route that starts up a steep face with a few low edges for feet and then a good stretch of scratching at barren rock with minimal features. Lots of looseness and chossy bits still, with some hollow features just before reaching the midway slopey ledge, as in the bottom might continue to get harder as it cleans up. Then pull the big fun roof via many helpful features that the bottom had chosen to lack. Bottom and top halves are completely different in character. Worth the raw tips and stress to get to crank on the easier big roof, which felt about solid 5.10. Bartlett's Central JT book rates the route 5.10d R/X with a 5.11a penciled in at the bottom slab in its topo diagram.