Lower Sharpnose Point Rock Climbing

This is the crown of the Culm Coast, featuring thin fins of rock reaching into the sea with a high density of great quality E grade routes. On the whole, routes tend to be physical and sustained, though technically straightforward and reasonably well protected. The rock is a fine grained sandstone, of generally good quality on the routes (but not of climbing the truncated fins as an escape route). Rock takes well to cams, so doubling up often is worth it. Depending on wind/temperature/humidity, the bottom of routes may sometimes hold a bit of damp from the tide, so chalk and determination is recommended, though this does generally improve after the starts.

There are three main fins (+1 minor one). From north to south:
- (Baby Fin: this minor fin has some established, but almost never climbed routes)
- North Fin: Large fin that can easily be walked along top of, many notable routes on both faces
- Middle Fin: Tallest fin, it is loose up top and the scramble off is not recommended. Utilize fixed anchors, which may need backing up or replacement. Notable routes on both faces, with many hard test pieces on the south face
- South Fin: Further away, this has one notable route (Dulcima) on its north face

For detailed listing of all routes & descriptions see UKC