Little Elephant Head Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 139 ft |
GPS: |
42.62146, -70.7208 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 6,982 total · 100/month |
Shared By: | Joshua Klockars on Jul 29, 2018 |
Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
A nice addition to the surrounding boulders and the crags across the street, this sunny slab has a handful of good beginner to intermediate routes. The routes are longer than they appear from the ground and are definitely worth a casual visit.
Bring a standard rack to a #3 for most climbs. There are glue-ins with quicklinks and rap rings at the top. Please DO NOT toprope from the rings. Rap with a 60m, or walk straight back past the boulder and off the large gully climber’s left.
For TR'ing, a quad works well for most climbs. A boulder pinch anchor can be used to access the top anchor safely.
For a few years anyway, full-length climbing was blocked by a large, fallen pine. While cleaning the area, we found an OLD climbing sling buried beneath the sod. In other ways too, it was obvious this crag had been climbed before, but attempts at finding its history have thus far come up empty. The names given are only working titles until further information is discovered. Cheers!
Bring a standard rack to a #3 for most climbs. There are glue-ins with quicklinks and rap rings at the top. Please DO NOT toprope from the rings. Rap with a 60m, or walk straight back past the boulder and off the large gully climber’s left.
For TR'ing, a quad works well for most climbs. A boulder pinch anchor can be used to access the top anchor safely.
For a few years anyway, full-length climbing was blocked by a large, fallen pine. While cleaning the area, we found an OLD climbing sling buried beneath the sod. In other ways too, it was obvious this crag had been climbed before, but attempts at finding its history have thus far come up empty. The names given are only working titles until further information is discovered. Cheers!
Getting There
From Route 133/Essex Ave.: follow any approach trail past the Cavalry Boulder and Cavalry Slab. The alcove boulders will be high on your right when the large slab is soon visible on the left.
From the cemetery: walk straight in through the cemetery, and continue straight. Head right up and over a slab top, then trending down and right, the crag will appear on your right.
From the cemetery: walk straight in through the cemetery, and continue straight. Head right up and over a slab top, then trending down and right, the crag will appear on your right.
Classic Climbing Routes at Little Elephant Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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