Banshee Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.73, -105.429 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Josh Smith on May 9, 2018|
Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay
History (Admin Only): Jason Halladay edited this area May 6, 2019 View all 7
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" May 7, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Description" May 8, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" May 22, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Getting There" Jun 26, 2019
Jason Halladay edited "Description" Jul 23, 2019
Jason Halladay edited this area Aug 20, 2019
Hike the Porvenir Canyon trail for about 1.2 miles (a short distance beyond the cable suspension bridge crossing.) Leave the trail heading up the steep slope on the right. There isn't any landmark for where to leave the trail so use your best judgment and a topo map. Hike up the slope generally heading north staying to the right of any rock outcroppings. Cross over a couple of faint ridges while hugging the rocks on the left up a steeper, looser slope to a prominent rocky ridge. Look for intermittent cairns marking the way. Aim for a slit/notch with a large tree in it in this rocky ridge and cross the rocky ridge in this slit/notch.
On the other side of the slit/notch descend a short bit to a major, wide ledge system with trees. Follow intermittent cairns with one very short bit of fourth-class climbing in a chimney. Then cruise the big ledge until you're underneath the Banshee Wall. There is a final low 5th class chimney/face section to get to the very large tree on the ledge at the center of the face. Shoot for that.
Alternatively, follow the Porvenir trail from the Hermit's Peak parking area until you see the obvious wall on your right. The Lower Slabs approach gives additional details. Getting to the base of the Banshee Wall from the Slabs is a bit of a challenge. We came in from the far left on a series of ledges and did quite a lot of marginal 5th class scrambling.
Another approach option would be to climb one of the The Lower Slabs routes and then work upwards towards the face on ledges. There is a final low 5th class chimney/face to get to the very large tree on the ledge at the center of the face. Shoot for that.
- Rappel 1: At the top, find a small tree with webbing and a screw link just down from the edge that's directly above the big ledge at the top of P4. Rap 200' straight down from this tree to the big ledge.
- Rappel 2: The second rap is from the fixed pin and nuts with cord/ring. Rap straight down 210' to the two-bolt anchor at the top of P2. This is a steep and airy rappel. Run your ropes over the edge a bit to climber's right so you end up on the ledge.
- Rappel 3: Rappel straight down 235' into a bowl with a short bit of downclimbing. Tie knots in the end of your ropes. Or, if you left gear at the base of the route, rappel over to the base of the route instead. The ropes can get caught on the small tower near the base so use caution.
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