Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches
FA: Jason Halladay, Josh Smith - May 5, 2019
Page Views: 649 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 20, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

Lamia is a fun, varied route climbing up to, and through, the major chimney system on the right side of the Banshee Wall. The first three pitches are great quality rock while the rock quality on the upper third of the route deteriorates a bit. Still, it’s a worthy route to the top of the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.10-, 25’)– A short pitch. Place big gear behind the massive detached flake’s left end and climb up around the outside edge of the flake (it’s too narrow to climb it as an offwidth) to a big ledge on top of the flake. While you could keep going into the next pitch, it’s best to belay here to lessen the amount of rope out for the follower and makes for better communication. Gear for belay.

Pitch 2 (5.10+, 100’) – Climb the rampy dihedral up and left to reach another rampy dihedral back right. Continue up the dihedral to a short, steep finishing dihedral to a small ledge. Gear for belay.

Pitch 3 (5.11-, 200’)– Step left from the ledge into the splitter crack up the face. Good jamming leads to a tough pull over a small roof. Continue up the crack as the difficulty eases off and climbing easier, blocky, ledgy terrain all the way up to the huge ledge and terrace at the base of the huge chimney/corner above. Look for fixed nuts/webbing for belay on huge ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.9, 50’)– Another short pitch. Climb the corner and wide chimney (trickier than it looks) up to a big, comfy ledge out left. Gear for belay.

Pitch 5 (5.10, 160’)– Tip toe up the corner and wide crack until the crack turns into a chimney. Chimney up the featured chimney for about 20 feet and exit the chimney to right on a good ledge at the base of a steepening wall. Gear for belay.

Pitch 6 (5.10-, 90’)– Climb the face above the ledge with some trickier-than-it-looks moves until the angle backs off a bit. Climb up into the alcove at the top of the corner and climb through a cool hole in the top of the alcove blocks to the top of the wall. Gear for belay.

Location Suggest change

Lamia starts from near the large ponderosa tree at the base of the Banshee Wall, right of the start of  La Llorona. The massive flake is obvious. It does take some low fifth class scrambling to reach this ledge with the large ponderosa. See the description for La Llorona for more details.

Protection Suggest change

A double rack from finger to hands. #3, #4, #5, #6. Nuts. Long runners. The big cams are not really necessary if you cruise the start but could also prove useful on the fifth pitch (although we didn't have anything bigger than #4 on our ascent.)

Descent Suggest change

Walk over to the top of La Llorona and rappel that route with two 70m ropes. 

Three rappels with two 70m ropes required. Take some webbing/cord to replace/add to existing rap anchor cord.

  • Rappel 1: At the top of the wall, find a small tree with webbing and a screw link just down from the edge that's directly above the big ledge at the top of P4 of La Llorona. Rap 200' straight down from this tree to the big ledge. 
  • Rappel 2: The second rap is from the fixed pin and nuts with cord/ring. Rap straight down 210' to the two-bolt anchor at the top of P2 of La Llorona. This is a steep and airy rappel. Run your ropes over the edge a bit to climber's right so you end up on the ledge. 
  • Rappel 3: Rappel straight down 235' into a bowl with a short bit of downclimbing. Tie knots in the end of your ropes. Or, if you left gear at the base of the La Llorona route, rappel over to the base of the route instead. The ropes can get caught on the small tower near the base so use caution. 

Once on the ground, the lower slabs can be rapped off of nice bolted anchors if you can find the top of the slabs. Take webbing and rap rings. Alternatively, and easier, walk east on the major ledge system looking for a sneaky notch in the major east ridge. If you find this notch, it's an easy descent down the loose slope east back down to the main trail.