Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches
FA: Jason Halladay, Josh Smith - April 27, 2018
Page Views: 724 total · 18/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on May 9, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is a wild adventure route with engaging climbing and some crumbly rock. With the exception of 50 feet on P3, this would be a four star classic but it has some crumbly rock and dirt in the cracks.

Pitch 1 (5.10) - Climb a thin crack just left of the large tree on the start ledge (see photo). After about 90 feet, the crack ends; traverse 20 left with good protection and easy climbing to a nice stance below the main corner system. 120 feet.

Pitch 2 (5.10-) - Up the steep corner for about 60 feet. Good protection, excellent rock. Stop at the nice ledge below the disintegrating section (think bad Black Canyon peg) at a two-bolt anchor. 60 feet.

Pitch 3 (5.11- R)  - Delicately stem the scoop and tip toe up junky 5.10R past two bolts for 60 feet. Then climb bomber 5.11 granite corner to a roof; Turn the roof on the right, then above the roof bust left to a stance on the arete to a belay with one pin and small gear (nut or red C3 cam.) 110 feet.

Pitch 4 (5.10) - A short pitch. Go slightly left to a fixed nut then straight up juggy and steep rock for about 50' to a great ledge with a pin and fixed nuts rap anchor. 50 feet. 

Pitch 5 (5.9) - From the big ledge either go up the corner for 20' and traverse left on featured rock to a ledge or go left from the belay up steep, juggy, lichen-encrusted rock to the same ledge. From this ledge work left and up a crack to a bush and corner climbing great 5.9 to the top. Look for a small tree with webbing. This tree is the start of the rappels. 160 feet.

Descent:  Three rappels with two 70m ropes required. Take some webbing/cord to replace/add to existing rap anchor cord.
  • Rappel 1: At the top of the wall, find a small tree with webbing and a screw link just down from the edge that's directly above the big ledge at the top of P4. Rap 200' straight down from this tree to the big ledge. 
  • Rappel 2: The second rap is from the fixed pin and nuts with cord/ring. Rap straight down 210' to the two-bolt anchor at the top of P2. This is a steep and airy rappel. Run your ropes over the edge a bit to climber's right so you end up on the ledge. 
  • Rappel 3: Rappel straight down 235' into a bowl with a short bit of downclimbing. Tie knots in the end of your ropes. Or, if you left gear at the base of the route, rappel over to the base of the route instead. The ropes can get caught on the small tower near the base so use caution. 
Once on the ground, the lower slabs can be rapped off of nice bolted anchors if you can find the top. Take webbing and rap rings. Alternatively, walk east on the major ledge system looking for a sneaky notch in the major east ridge. If you find this notch, it's an easy descent down the loose slope east back down to the main trail.

Location

Follow the approach to the Slabs, climb something to access the ledge system above, use cleverness to scramble to the ledge with the really big tree at the base of the wall. See photo. The last scramble is 30 feet of 5th class up a big dihedral/feature to a fantastic ledge.

Protection

Doubles to #3, one #4. Set of nuts. Long slings.

Photos

0 Comments