No Future No Past

This is an enjoyable five-pitch route up the southeast-facing buttress on the left (west) end of the Banshee Wall. A major gully system separates this buttress from the main Banshee Wall giving this line the feeling of summiting a separate formation. It also affords fantastic views of the Banshee Wall itself. 

There are some runout sections on easier terrain but a competent 5.8 leader should have no issues. 

Pitch 1 - 5.7 (90’). Start up the obvious gully system that separates this formation from the Banshee Wall. When reaching a short, scooped dihedral with no pro, cut left to find good protection on blockier terrain and then move back right above the scooped dihedral. Up higher, avoid going right up an unprotected roofy section and, instead, head left on lesser quality rock past a small tree to a three-bolt anchor (amusing story behind the three bolts) in a tiny alcove below a large roof. 

Pitch 2 - 5.8 (90’). From the bolted anchor climb up, angling up and right, across the face to turn the large roof on its right end. (The roof crack directly above looks great but some major cleaning of blocks below the roof will be necessary before that's an option.) Once around the roof, climb up, in a short chimney, and then left on a fun, nicely featured face (no pro) or in the faint corner to a good ledge with a bolted anchor below a small roof. 

Pitch 3 - 5.8 (100’). Climb cautiously up hollow-sounding blocks to a small roof with good finger size gear. Pull through the roof and climb the crack up easier, featured rock up to a bulge. Clip a bolt at the bulge and climb up and right to a two-bolt anchor in a large dish. 

Pitch 4 - 5.8 PG13 (110’). Face climb up and slightly left on easy terrain to the steep headwall above. Look for a large chickenhead feature going up steep terrain into a small quartz dike and big chickenhead. Clip a bolt near this chickenhead, pull cautiously past the chickenhead to the quartz dike. At the dike, climb up and angle right getting a flaring #1 camalot for gear as you traverse right a bit more around a corner. At the corner, get a bomber red C3 placement in a perfectly-placed horizontal pocket. Pull around the corner to a short bit of steeper climbing, clipping a bolt on your way to a large, low-angle dihedral. A rappel anchor is out to the right, and you could belay there (not recommended), but it's better to climb the dihedral, pop out onto an awesomely exposed “saddle” and belay at the saddle with great, exposed views all around. Gear belay with hand-sized gear. 

Pitch 5 - 5.7 (80’). Climb straight up from the belay following cracks on the exposed arete. When the gear runs out, make a airy, fun moves straight up the arete past two bolts into small dihedral. Climb the dihedral and then take easier blocky terrain to a big ledge just below the top of the formation. Belay here at three-bolt rappel anchor. 

From the belay/rappel anchor at the top of pitch 5, it’s an easy scramble to the top of the formation for a great view up Porvenir canyon. 

The approach to the Banshee Wall and base of this route is complicated and took us a couple times to get it right.  This hiking route is about two miles and gains roughly 1,400’. It starts on a good trail in the canyon, crossing the stream once, before heading off-trail and up steep slopes, through a sneaky notch, and across a large ledge system to the base of the Banshee Wall. Intermittent cairns will hopefully keep you on track. Expect the approach to take about two hours the first time you do it. The slopes are looser and less fun after the 2022 Calf Canyon/Hermit Peak wildfire but still reasonable.

When you reach the base of the Banshee Wall, continue west along the base to a chimney/gully on the left end of the wall. No Future, No Past starts up this gully before moving left onto the obvious buttress left of the gully.

Single rack from red C3 to #3 camalot and a set of nuts is adequate. Doubles in the finger size is nice. Bolt anchors at the top of P1, P2, P3 and P5. 

To descend, rappel the route with a single 70m rope. All rappel anchors are bolts with rings/quicklinks. From the top of P5, rappel straight down to a bolted rappel anchor off to the side of P4. This is a rope stretcher so tie knots in the end of the rope and expect to downclimb/downclip to the anchors. USE CAUTION. From this rappel anchor, rappel straight down to the anchor at the top of P3. 

The rappel down P2 is free-hanging below the roof. You'll have to push/swing over left to get to the anchors. It works out but keep swinging so you don't get stuck in the air. 

Alternatively, you could figure out a way to get to the top of the Banshee Wall and rappel down “La Llorona” with two 70m ropes.