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East Cliffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in East Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Unknown S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown 5.11/5.12 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	1,076 ft	328 m
GPS:	45.84935, -82.10509 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,022 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Kris Mutafov on Aug 26, 2017
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

**Warning: Poison Ivy is plentiful at the base of these cliffs. Please take extra caution when walking. The ivy is in leaves of 3 with berries and turns red in late summer. It leaves a nasty rash if contacted.***

The East Cliffs is where the real magic of the Cup and Saucer hides. In a striking 90 degree angle, the Niagara Escarpment drops directly down in a pattern of corners, faces, and dramatic aretes. Most of the climbing takes place above the forest, making the location and exposure supreme. There is plenty of potential for new routes, with only 10 to 15 lines bolted over a sample platter of rock right now. The climbing itself is on seemingly blank rock, but the climber will find surprisingly good pockets and flat ledges. The corners are easy to moderate, and the faces are hard technical pocket climbing. The aretes are unbolted at this time, and are sure to become future ulta-classics once bolted. Difficulty ranges from 5.6 to 5.12.

Getting There

Accessing the East Cliffs is harder than the West Cliffs. The entire Cup and Saucer approach was changed in May 2017 because of private property quarrels , thus closing a lower approach trail from the north. Here are the directions to access the base of the East Cliffs:
1. Take the main trail to the very top of the plateau, following the orange squares.
2.Cut across the top by following the sign that says 'Trail to East Lookout and Highest Point'.
3. Turn left at the east lookout. Now you're skirting along the the top of the East cliffs. The trail will slowly descend and you will come across a sign that says 'LOWER TRAIL CLOSED'. Go this way. You will pass through a sort of chimney in the rock, and just right after this, I built a little cairn to signal an unmarked path branching off to the right. It goes directly under the base of the cliffs. (If you can't find this cairn, if you've hit the boulders at the bottom you've gone too far. ) The trail goes under the cliffs under some overhangs and will eventually lead you to lines of bolts.