University Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in University Buttress
|Chancellor Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||-42.898, 147.241 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||David Stephenson on Mar 25, 2017|
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DescriptionUniversity Buttress is the farthest left (south) of the major Organ Pipes buttresses. Round the LH end of the buttress, the cliff is broken into a complex of minor features, while the east face features the smaller Triclinicity buttress and a narrow vertical face split by the striking 60m high Ozymandias corner, easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track.
Avalanche Couloir is the prominent couloir that splits University and Bulging Buttresses. It offers a mixture of shorter length trad and sport routes. The couloir is divided into sunny (LH) and shady (RH) sides and has L and R forks near the top. It also offers a route down from the top of the LH end of the Pipes.
Getting ThereApproach via the Bulging Buttress/University Buttress track, which is signposted off the Organ Pipes track. The track climbs uphill to meet the base of Bulging Buttress, traverses left below the wall of Jelly Roll, then across past the little Aperitif sub-buttress and on up to enter Avalanche Couloir. A rock platform has been constructed under Chancellor Direct, a prominent crack line on the lower LH wall, and this route is a handy reference for locating other climbs.
For routes on the Triclinicity and University Buttress Left Side either go down left around the arête, or scramble through the notch just past Ozymandias. For routes in Avalanche Couloir head uphill from Chancellor.
Descent varies, with some routes requiring a scramble across to the Carpe Diem rap station (50m) while other rap stations are included in individual route descriptions. To descend any other routes make your way to the head of the couloir and scramble down the couloir itself. Apart from a short down climb near the top the descent is straightforward.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season