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Routes in University Buttress

Chancellor Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972
Page Views: 52 total, 6/month
Shared By: David Stephenson on Mar 25, 2017
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Description

One of the best routes of the grade on the Pipes. The route starts at the clean right facing corner located at the foot of the LHS of Avalanche Couloir.
1. 38m 17 Great bridging up the corner (crux) to the overhang, which is passed on the L. A strategically placed cam in the rope-sized crack on the lip can prevent a rope snag. Up the left facing corner above to belay at the top of the detached pillar.
2. 22m 16 Climb the crack above passing a thinner section through a bulge. When the crack ends move up and right past some loose blocks to a large ledge. DB abseil anchors are on the right at the top of Carpe Diem.

Protection

Standard rack of cams and wires. A first cam placed low on the left at the start can prevent the wires that project the crux section from ripping out in the event of a fall. Double bolt anchors allow 50m rap to base.

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