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Pizzi Gemelli Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Pizzi Gemelli

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Bügeleisen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

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Elevation:	10,765 ft	3,281 m
GPS:	46.29521, 9.61041 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,148 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Brian in SLC on Mar 16, 2017
Admins:	Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Pizzi Gemelli, the twins, is a double summit just east of the big, precipitous and stone spitting Pizzo Cengalo (which is east of the Piz Badile) and west across the Passo di Bondo col.

The old classic route is the big, long north ridge which was first ascended back in the mid 30’s and at the time, was the first grade VI route in the Alps. What most parties are gunning for, however, is the classic flatiron summit (2680m), the Ferra da Stiro aka the Bügeleisen.

Stunning alpine scenery with big, sheer granite faces and glaciers with fine huts and well marked trails…what’s not to like?

Getting There

Routes on the north side of Pizzi Gemelli are best approached from the amusingly fun (read: steep) trail to the Capanna di Sciora hut. Paying extra to drive to the parking lot is especially tempting if doing a route car-to-car.

From the Sciora hut, take the well marked trail towards the Sasc Furä hut then cut over towards the base of the peak when practical.