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Pizzi Gemelli

International > Europe > Switzerland > Bergell

Description

Pizzi Gemelli, the twins, is a double summit just east of the big, precipitous and stone spitting Pizzo Cengalo (which is east of the Piz Badile) and west across the Passo di Bondo col.

The old classic route is the big, long north ridge which was first ascended back in the mid 30’s and at the time, was the first grade VI route in the Alps. What most parties are gunning for, however, is the classic flatiron summit (2680m), the Ferra da Stiro aka the Bügeleisen.

Stunning alpine scenery with big, sheer granite faces and glaciers with fine huts and well marked trails…what’s not to like?

Getting There

Routes on the north side of Pizzi Gemelli are best approached from the amusingly fun (read: steep) trail to the Capanna di Sciora hut. Paying extra to drive to the parking lot is especially tempting if doing a route car-to-car.

From the Sciora hut, take the well marked trail towards the Sasc Furä hut then cut over towards the base of the peak when practical.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
Bügeleisen
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bügeleisen
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 15 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The north side of Pizzi Gemelli
[Hide Photo] The north side of Pizzi Gemelli
Pizzi Gemelli to the left, the huge bulk of Pizzo Cengalo in the middle, and the Piz Badile to the right.
[Hide Photo] Pizzi Gemelli to the left, the huge bulk of Pizzo Cengalo in the middle, and the Piz Badile to the right.