Upper Patina Wall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 2,363 ft | 720 m |
GPS: |
44.04134, -71.7871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 5,172 total · 53/month | |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Nov 6, 2016 · Updates | |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
ACCESS- ACCESS NOTICE - The North side of Kinsman Notch was the scene of a forest fire during Oct 2017.
Update 2019 - Since the fire this entire area has seen extensive clean up and trail work by Jamie Cunningham and local climbers and most routes are climbable including all three pitches of Black Tourmaline. The crags are all open now and expect to find lots of new growth ferns and small shrubs along the trail as nature takes care of the fire damage. Jamie recommends folks bring in loppers (or hand clippers) and a small saw for any further trail and route maintenance. It also appears (to me) most bolts have been replaced...at least they all looked new to me on Lower Patina Wall in Sept 2019.
Home to about 10 climbs, Upper Patina Wall is a bit more difficult to get to than the Lower.
SEE MY COMMENTS FROM 10/14/24: find under Rib Rider, Lost River Crag page. Take and edit what you need for current trail conditions. I suggest all early notes on trail conditions be removed and revised with my current information. I will write more observations and revisions as I have more time- i.e. the LPW has had new routes added and older routes have been retro bolted to make them more like sport climbs with a spattering of trad gear where needed. All climbs have modern anchors. For example, Power Head is no longer an X-climb. It is now a enjoyable bolt protected climb. It is advised that a small trad rack be on board. LPW has seen all the traffic this summer (2024), and for good reasons. It is my mission to open up access to the other areas that have worthy climbing on them.
The following crags are in bad shape to get to and quite possibly not climbable until climbers take it upon themselves to do some real trail work: Little Crack Land, Lost River Crag, Russian Arena, Upper Patina Wall, and the mysterious Never Never Land area that borders the Lost River Caves and Boulders tourist attraction land (likely nobody has been there since the routes were first done!).
Experience shows few people take the time to do any trail work. If each climbing party were take 30 minutes out of their day, it would make a difference to keep the main trails open. I am only asking to do the light, easy trail maintenance. I want to discourage people from doing any major work that might be against National Forest Policy. I think it reasonable to keep open already established trails. Leave that to the developers (me) as we know this place intimately. This will be important on an ongoing basis during the climbing season to keep the undergrowth from encroaching into the trails. I will continue my work regardless.
Jamie Cunningham
Getting There
Take the climber's path across the street from the AT parking. You'll walk through flat, open forest. After about 5 min (or less) there will be a rock step, and shortly thereafter the trail will split. (Little Crack Land and Lost River Crag are "straight ahead".)
Turn right for Bull Pen and Lower & Upper Patina Walls (and all other minor Lost River Crags.) You'll reach the very obvious slab of the Bull Pen in a few minutes. Continue up and right, steeply at times, to the base of Lower Patina Wall.
As of sept 24 2020 there is no fixed rope, the trail has been relocated slightly *, its steep but doesn't need a rope at this point in time. Things look very different, you go almost to the last climbs on the right, ant phobia and nuttin but nuttin and then cut back left. To reach nuttin you have to scramble up onto the ledge.
* The old path climbed up more closely to the right side of Lower Patina, sometimes using a fixed rope for safety/assist.
Aug 2023 Update- See comment by June-M. Looks like 3yrs more growth, esp. the super wet yr of 2023, has sent the new undergrowth soaring!
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Patina Wall
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