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Routes in 6. Upper Patina Wall

Ant Phobia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indian Summer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nuttin But Nuttin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rib Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: John Bain, Jon Sykes (Summer 2008)
Page Views: 233 total · 17/month
Shared By: Christopher Woodall on Sep 6, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb takes you over some beautiful rock with a unique patina for the NE. The route still needs a little love, but the rock is awesome and the views are great too. It has been one of my favourite discoveries in Jon Sykes' guidebook, "The Notches". Sykes does say the "Runout between protection makes this route a real thinker", but while the runout is there the gear was present where it was needed. Solid, exciting and beautiful face climbing.

Start below a partially detached block/boulder with a tree growing out of climb up the right side of the boulder using the left facing corner. After this you will climb up to a diagonal seam using the face and crack to get towards the first of 4 bolts. Follow the bolts (gear in between) up to a flake, then pull up to the anchors.

The climb is almost 60m long and will require 2 ropes to rappel. There are no good trees, or intermediate anchors to use, so if you only bring 1 rope you will have to be innovative.

Location

Starts below a partially detached block with a tree growing out of the top. Indian Summer goes to the right and The Real McCoy goes to the left.

Protection

Standard Rack, 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at the top

RAP WITH 2 60m ROPES

Photos

Jon Booth
  5.7+ PG13
Jon Booth  
  5.7+ PG13
Our party cleared 3-4 large burned trees from the top of this climb, which were blocking the anchor bolts. (The bolts appear to be in fine shape). This climb is accessible once again.
Beta: This is a fantastic route, fun thin edges on the patina. There is a great #2 C4 placement on the traverse right, to the first bolt. The first bolt should be extended to reduce rope drag, as the route trends left after this. After bolt #4, small cams (0.2-0.4 BD sizes) are nice to have. When you get to the 2-bolt anchor, there will be 10-15ft of rope left. Jun 5, 2018

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