Lower Patina Wall Rock Climbing

ACCESS NOTICE - The North side of Kinsman Notch was the scene of a forest fire during Oct 2017. This has resulted in ( by 2023) scrub re-growth as the forest heals itself.

Update 2019 and Oct 2024 -   Since the fire this entire area has seen extensive clean up and trail work both in 2019 and again in fall of 2024 by Jamie Cunningham and local climbers and most routes are climbable including all three pitches of Black Tourmaline. The crags are all open now and the trail re-cleared in 2024 but as time goes on expect new growth ferns and small shrubs along the trail as nature takes care of the fire damage. Jamie recommends folks bring in loppers (or hand clippers) and a small saw for any further trail and route maintenance. If we all do a little a big job becomes small.
 It also appears (to me) most bolts have been replaced...at least they all looked new to me on Lower Patina Wall in Sept 2019.

Home to at least a dozen climbs, including the "gem" Black Tourmaline (5.7+, 300 ft) the Lower Patina Wall is destined to become one of the "destination" crags at Kinsman. (OK, bad pun)

The area gets its name from the patina of chip-like flakes, similar to the veneer on some of the faces at Red Rocks.

NOTE: There is a new (2019) 8-bolt route between Black Tourmaline and Patina that is not even in the Sykes guidebook, don't get it confused with either climb!  There is also a little-climbed climb between Patina and "PowerHead" that climbs up thru the green moss-lichen.  This is SykoHead (5.7 R / X?)  More info in the guidebook (and see photo). Both can be TR-er from the "PowerHead" anchor.

SEE MY COMMENTS FROM 10/14/24: find under Rib Rider, Lost River Crag page. Take and edit what you need for current trail conditions. I suggest all early notes on trail conditions be removed and revised with my current information. I will write more observations and revisions as I have more time- i.e. the LPW has had new routes added and older routes have been retro bolted to make them more like sport climbs with a spattering of trad gear where needed. All climbs have modern anchors. For example, Power Head is no longer an X-climb. It is now a enjoyable bolt protected climb. It is advised that a small trad rack be on board. LPW has seen all the traffic this summer (2024), and for good reasons. It is my mission to open up access to the other areas that have worthy climbing on them. 

The following crags are in bad shape to get to and quite possibly not climbable until climbers take it upon themselves to do some real trail work: Little Crack Land, Lost River Crag, Russian Arena, Upper Patina Wall, and the mysterious Never Never Land area that borders the Lost River Caves and Boulders tourist attraction land (likely nobody has been there since the routes were first done!).

Experience shows few people take the time to do any trail work. If each climbing party were take 30 minutes out of their day, it would make a difference to keep the main trails open. I am only asking to do the light, easy trail maintenance. I want to discourage people from doing any major work that might be against National Forest Policy. I think it reasonable to keep open already established trails.  Leave that to the developers (me) as we know this place intimately. This will be important on an ongoing basis during the climbing season to keep the undergrowth from encroaching into the trails. I will continue my work regardless.  

Jamie Cunningham