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Routes in 4. Lower Patina Wall

Black Tourmaline T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetos Direct T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Patina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tuolumne Two Step T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ed Pinskey and Isaiah Newton
Page Views: 224 total, 22/month
Shared By: edward pinskey on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This steep dynamic route route is quite tenacious for its size, but protects well and falls are clean. Start under the overhang and climb up into the awkward corner. Clip the bolt and make a big move to a good hold. Protect the crux move in the horizontal with a big stopper. Make powerful moves over blocky bulges to a finger sized crack. This is where this route comes into the crux "Assbone Arete" a 5.9 done by John Bain and John Sykes. Follow crack to a two bolt anchor.

Story Time- After a day or working the crux and getting further every try, we decided to come back another day. The next day rested i got the route first try. After a few tries and no luck, Isaiah ate a bag of cheetos and the cheese dust was just what he needed to get him up the route.

Location

This is the furthest right route on the wall. follow the trail right and the wall makes a bend. You cant miss this steep alcove.

Protection

Stoppers, quick draw, cams from fingers to bd #1 maybe a bigger cam and a long draw if you want to protect before the bolt.

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