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Routes in Elixir Wall

Alchemy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Apothecary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Newt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mama's Magic Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Brew T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toe of Frog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tongue of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witch's Brew T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wool of Bat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 37.499, -118.719 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,122 total · 126/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This Southeast facing wall is located ~150m left of 4:20 Wall. Look for the triangular roof on the left side of the wall and the orange “heart shaped” headwall in the center of the wall. This wall sits at 9000’ and gets sun until mid-afternoon. This area is a great hang with stellar views of Broken Tooth. Prime season is early spring to late fall.

As of August 2016, all bolts and hangers are stainless steel.

Getting There

Approach as for 4:20 Wall. Park 0.8 mile up from Gong Show parking at a pull out. From the parking, walk to the creek and go downstream along an obvious trail beside creek. Follow trail for ~150 meters/ 90 seconds to a tree that spans the creek. If you cannot avoid the temptation to cross the creek early, you will bushwhack. After crossing at the tree, the trail turns right thru the trees. Once you break out of the trees, you are right below Elixir Wall. Stay right and follow cairns and trail up hillside to the right of large talus field. Landmarks include The Cauldron Roof and the orange face of Elixir Wall. Allow 10-15 minutes.

During periods of high spring run off, the river crossing may be submerged. If this is the case, continue up Rock Creek Road to the Pallisade Group Campground. Park in the public parking. Walk down the road past the campground. Stay right at the fork. At cabin #23, just past the stone wall, pick up a trail that parallels the creek. This trail leads directly to the trail described above. This way skips the river crossing but adds ~5-10 minutes/ ¼ mile to the approach.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elixir Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Strange Brew
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Alchemy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Toe of Frog
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Mother's Milk
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Mama's Magic Milk
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Witch's Brew
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Strange Brew
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Alchemy
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Toe of Frog
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mother's Milk
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mama's Magic Milk
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Witch's Brew
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
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Photos

phylp
Upland
phylp   Upland
Wow! I am so impressed with the extensive work that was done to stabilize the base and make for easy belay platforms on the sloping face. We only got to three routes on our first visit but will return. Thanks! Sep 10, 2016
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
Good job guys. Fun routes. Oct 10, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
excellent approach trail/base, fun routes, and pretty much the nicest hardware/anchors i've seen on the eastside (or anywhere else) - thanks! Jul 9, 2018

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