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Routes in Elixir Wall

Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apothecary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Newt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mama's Magic Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Brew T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toe of Frog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tongue of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witch's Brew T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wool of Bat T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jim Barnes, Mark Lovell 7/2016
Page Views: 300 total · 13/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start as for Mother’s Milk. A cruxy start leads to a pitch of fun 5.10 climbing. After clipping the 9th bolt, continue up steep and sustained face. 35m. Shares anchor with Apothecary. Watch rope end when lowering off!

Location

Elixir Wall Center. Lower off.

Protection

14 quickdraws.

Photos

Ya, short people need to be able to clip the bolts too. but I really wished that first one was a bit higher. Most of my short climbing partners have a clip stick and carry a stiff draw any how. Sep 10, 2016
kc06
 
kc06  
 
Awesome route, my favorite on the wall. I'm a vertically challenged climber (5'2").....I can't say I've ever used a stick clip so I totally appreciated the first bolt placement. Committing first moves for sure but super fun! Oct 1, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d
really fun route, with a couple of interesting sections higher up. i'm with jeff re: the first bolt - with the right hand on the jug (if you're having trouble getting there i would recommend not leading this route) even a 'short' person (what would lynn hill say) could clip significantly higher (than the current bolt) and the crux move would be significantly better protected (less potential of scraping over the lip in a fall). i guess, appeasing everybody would mean to raise the current 1st bolt and put in another one a foot or two below the lip. OR, we could just all suck it up and lead it just the way it is (which we did ;-)

if you smear well i would say this is more 10c/d. i was pretty flabbergasted to see the gazelle mantle the crux... Aug 4, 2018

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