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Routes in Elixir Wall

Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apothecary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Newt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mama's Magic Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe of Frog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tongue of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witch's Brew T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wool of Bat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Jim Barnes, Mark Lovell 7/2016
Page Views: 167 total, 11/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Shared start with Strange Brew. Scramble up to ledge. Continue up bolt protected face. At the third bolt, move left and up sustained face to beautiful left leaning finger and hand crack. This is a bit of a squeeze job, but a challenging lead will reward those who stay true to the line and avoid using Strange Brew.

Location

Elixir Wall Center. Lower off.

Protection

7 bolts. Gear to #1 Camalot. A few slings to manage rope drag.

Photos

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Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11c
Best route on the wall. Belay from the ledge and bring a shoulder length or 2 or you will feel the drag.

I placed a #8 stopper off the ledge at the bottom, then you get bolts. Higher I placed a couple of med size stoppers and a #.75 and #1 Camalot.

A couple of the clips are tenuous so be mindful of rope drag.

As far as the route being a squeeze job, I don't think it is. You veer left to a crack so how is that a squeeze? I was never tempted to move back right, not sure you could make the climb any easier by doing so, you would have to move back left regardless so you would only be making it harder. Don't play the game of "is that hold on or off", just climb it to get to where you want to go.

Great route, thanks for the hard work and $ on the fanciest anchors I have ever lowered off of. My only sort of negative comments or questions would be, could the bolting have been done different to prevent rope drag and make the clips easier and for me the natural finish was to stand up on the ledge at the top but the anchor was really low and a bit awkward to clip? Regardless, it all works out. Sep 9, 2016