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Routes in Elixir Wall

Alchemy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Apothecary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Newt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mama's Magic Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Brew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe of Frog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tongue of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Witch's Brew T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wool of Bat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Joy Engblade, Marc Lovell, Jim Barnes 7/2016
Page Views: 188 total, 13/month
Shared By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are two starts for this route, and both start with a single bolt. The left start is 10a. The right start up black blobs is 5.9.

Climb one of two starts that leads to a continuous finger crack that finishes in a right facing corner. Excellent! 35m. This is a long lower off! Pay attention to the rope end when lowering!

Location

Elixir Wall Right.

Protection

3 bolts. Gear tiny to #1 Camalot. Offset cams are helpful. Pro is tricky at times.

Photos

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Fun route! Thanks for putting it up! The nature of this route made me want to sew it up, and I did. That being said, I carried way too much tiny gear. The smallest cam I placed was a .3 BD and the smallest stopper was a BD 7. I don't consider those tiny. Doubles of .3 up to .5 and a set of stoppers with extra med size is about what I used. I also placed a pink and red Tricam and would have placed a brown Tricam and one hand size piece had I carried them. Sep 10, 2016