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Routes in The Black Wall

Bat Corner (AKA Red Corner) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Behemoth S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MoonTooth S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tesseract S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

This is a short, black buttress NW of the Mecca bouldering area. It gets early sun and bakes until mid-afternoon. The cliff was old toprope area with several old cold shut anchors scattered around. The rock itself is mostly solid black, varnished sandstone. It would make for a good after work crag or when you are looking for something close to town with full sun in the winter.

As of right now, all routes I put up have been equipped with modern glue-ins. I spoke to the guy who put up the original cold shuts and has approved the bolting of the toprope routes. The cold shuts are still there and could be used to toprope, since you can access them via the 5.5, but do so at your own risk. They have been there for quite a while, and I had to tighten a couple of them back down when I first started working the area. The new glue-in anchors are in the more solid rock and are not as easily accessible from the top of the cliff.

While Red Rocks sandstone it is not, there appears to be options for more sport routes in the near vicinity on some of the taller cliffs. Stay tuned for more to come...hopefully!
Private Property Details

Getting There

The road is the same used to access the Pool of Plenty bouldering area. Drive 7.3 miles up CO 141 from the turn off of US Hwy 50, and take a right down a dirt road with a mailbox. Follow this road until you see the gate for the private property access. The road takes a sharp left away from the private property gate. Stay on the road as far up as your vehicle allows, but without high clearance 4WD, you won't get much further. There are several places to park before you get to the rough section.

Walk along the road until you are about even with the obvious, small, black buttress on your right. Keep an eye out and you will see a trail heading from the road to the cliff. Follow the trail until it peters out, and then carefully work your way uphill on the loose dirt and rocks. I will get back and try to build a cairn soon. Try your best to stay on the trail and washes to avoid unnecessary erosion, the slope is pretty loose the closer you get to the cliff. It is probably about 10-15 minutes from car to the cliff.

5 Total Climbs

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