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Routes in Macondo Cliff

Drill Rig S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dystopia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Floridita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macondo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off Shore Drilling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Utopia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weasel Buttress Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel Buttress Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weasel Buttress Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

A remote cliff high on the ridge above the Far Side - follow trail above Kola

These routes were put up while the Deep Water Horizon oil rig was spewing in the Gulf of Mexico. The sea floor area where it sank was ironically called the Macondo Tract. Macondo was the fictitious name of the obscure, ill-fated town whose story is detailed in Gabriel Garcia Marquez's pulitzer prize winning book "One Hundred Years of Solitude." Because the crag is so remote, has loose rock and seemed destined for obscurity, Macondo seemed a most appropriate name at the time.

Getting There

Take a direct line from the summit of Kola (top of Far Side) directly toward the South Summit. This trail begins on the saddle just beyond the walk off option of Kola.
Climb a steep 3rd class gully which leads to a trail which switchbacks up the ridge for 500 yards (15 minutes). The trail passes through some fallen pine trees eventually merging with the right (downhill side) of the Macondo Cliff formation. From there it is possible to access the base area, or by going right and up, the summit area.

Approach time is about 1 hour 15 min from car

From the top of the Macondo cliff the trail continues upward for another 500 yards to the south summit area and a branch of the fire road.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Macondo Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Macondo
Sport
Macondo 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
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Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
yes - lots of loose rock here still, so wear a helmet and be careful. A beautiful spot high on the Kimball Canyon ridge. May 11, 2016
I climbed here with two partners in November 2013. We only had time to lead two routes and we top-roped a third. On each route we knocked off several baseball-to-canteloupe sized rocks that had to be dodged by the two of us below, so it's a potentially dangerous place to climb. May 11, 2016

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