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Routes in Macondo Cliff

Drill Rig S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dystopia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Floridita S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Macondo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off Shore Drilling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Utopia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weasel Buttress Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weasel Buttress Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weasel Buttress Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill 2010
Page Views: 250 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ed Henicle on May 10, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This was the first route bolted at the cliff and features excellent moderate climbing on rock which is amazingly granite-like for volcanic tuff. After climbing the initial slab face the route steepens through some classic features on a tower before topping out on a rocky promontory with a commanding view of Kimball Canyon Crag and the Black Tower below. Anchors can be accessed by carefully climbing down from the top of the cliff 15 feet above.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
 
^^^ Glad you guys are ok!

Love the balancey moves on this route. The height of the first bolt adds a little spice, but great pro after that. Jug holds appear just when you need them. May 23, 2016
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
Two of us led this and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. Before reaching the first bolt, I pulled off a cantaloupe-sized rock that fell 15 feet and grazed the arm of a partner, Andrew Taylor, while he was shooting video.
May 11, 2016