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Garden Cliffs

Oregon > Willamette Valley > Garden

Description

This series of cliffs lies about three hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall and can be seen from Quartzville Drive through a marsh of blackberries just north of the boulders. The cliff consists of three areas separated by gullies: the Garden Cliff, the Fairy Tale Wall, and the Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Most of the established climbs are on the Garden Cliff, which is the first cliff that you come to.

Parking: There is a small parking area directly across from the trail. If people park at an angle it can hold six cars. Parallel parking drops it down to three cars.

Toilet: You'll pass several opportunities to poop as you drive to the cliff, use one of them. Please do not create a new trail to find some privacy for your needs. Do not pee next to the cliff as it overhangs enough that much of it is dry all year long.

Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped.

Toproping. Two routes on the Fairy Tale Wall can be accessed via a 5-easy offwidth. A Garden Called Peace (10a) provides access to toproping several other climbs. John Henry's Hammer (10c/d) provides access to toprope several harder climbs.

Trails: Please stay on the trails and try to keep all of your stuff in worn areas. Do not step on any vegetation. The developers have worked hard to build sustainable trails that minimally impact the land. There are several zones of flat ground that are nice spaces to hang out in and organize gear in: Scorpions, Fight Club, Slithering, Nachash, the ledge of 5.10s, and way out left on Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Use these spaces and don't create any new ones. Do not use hammocks or damage any trees in any way. The trees make climbing in the summer possible. There is a community set of hedge trimmers and the battle with the blackberries never ends. Please trim the blackberries back from the trail. The clippers have now walked off.

There is a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack. It comes and goes.

Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project, but all of the open ones are.

Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.

The Garden Cliff

  This is the first cliff that you come to, has the majority of climbs, and has the best climbs. Many shady climbs throughout the day.

  About one-third of the routes will be dry 24 hours after it has rained in the winter. Several of the climbs are wet well into the summer.

The Fairy Tale Wall

  The second cliff with only a handful of rather short climbs, but maybe a few more to come. Not much shade.

The Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome

  The third cliff, currently under development with a handful of routes. No shade. Right of the waterfall is the Cabbage Patch, left is Johnny Cash's Thunderdome.

Getting There

Behind the Garden Cliffs. Trail is to the east, about 80 yards down the road from a small pullout parking spot on the cliff side.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Stop once to wipe the sweat away
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
A million dollars of good
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
I will let you down
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
I fell for you like a child
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Kim Chi Corner
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Babaganoush
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Tabouli
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Don't Forget the Nooch
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
The Feather of Finist the Falcon
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
The Death of Koschei the Deathless
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 1
Raining Shit
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 9
Baba Yaga
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
Hive
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
A Garden Called Peace
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Nest
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
My Secret Garden
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Fertile Crescent
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Ovulation Send-sation
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 1
Meniscus Terror (Open Project)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Vandals in the Graveyard
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Criss Cross Applesauce
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Honey Comb Traverse
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
Honeycomb (Open Project)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
My Empire of Dirt
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
The Seraphim Nachash
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Castle Black
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
The Littlest Birds
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 1
Whirlybird (open project)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
Chimeras
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Heirloom
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
 1
The Vine (Open Project)
Sport, Mixed
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Lenticular Cloud
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Rain Shadow
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Wildlings
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Lazarus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
The Stasis Chamber
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Slithering Skink
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
Butterfly Effect
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Cutting Crack
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
Fight Club (Round Two)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Anaphylactic Shock
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Blackberry Jam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Community
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Daring to Fly
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet…
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Snug as a Snail
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Scorpion Revenge
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Linkup John to Snug
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Yggdrasil
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
John Henry's Hammer
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Ladybug
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Bonsai
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stop once to wipe the sweat…
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
A million dollars of good
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
I will let you down
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
I fell for you like a child
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kim Chi Corner
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Babaganoush
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tabouli
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Don't Forget the Nooch
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Feather of Finist the F…
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Death of Koschei the De…
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Raining Shit
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Baba Yaga
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Hive
 20
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
A Garden Called Peace
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nest
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
My Secret Garden
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fertile Crescent
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ovulation Send-sation
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Meniscus Terror (Open Project)
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Vandals in the Graveyard
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Criss Cross Applesauce
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Honey Comb Traverse
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Honeycomb (Open Project)
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
My Empire of Dirt
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Seraphim Nachash
 26
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Castle Black
 13
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Littlest Birds
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Whirlybird (open project)
 1
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Chimeras
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Heirloom
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Vine (Open Project)
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7 Sport, Mixed
Lenticular Cloud
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Rain Shadow
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wildlings
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lazarus
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Stasis Chamber
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Slithering Skink
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Butterfly Effect
 7
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Cutting Crack
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fight Club (Round Two)
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Anaphylactic Shock
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Blackberry Jam
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Community
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Daring to Fly
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Scorpion Hitchhikers To…
 31
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Snug as a Snail
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Scorpion Revenge
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Linkup John to Snug
 2
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Yggdrasil
 8
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
John Henry's Hammer
 18
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ladybug
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bonsai
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Garden Topo, compiled from Jayson Nissen's guidebook with his permission. We found a copy of it along with a stick clip under the rightmost routes and found it incredibly useful. I reached out to Jayson, he was ok with sharing the info just no selling
[Hide Photo] Garden Topo, compiled from Jayson Nissen's guidebook with his permission. We found a copy of it along with a stick clip under the rightmost routes and found it incredibly useful. I reached out to J…
Aerial view of the Garden Cliffs. The trail from the road leads to the far right side of this image.
[Hide Photo] Aerial view of the Garden Cliffs. The trail from the road leads to the far right side of this image.
Completed 5.11a. Fun route.
[Hide Photo] Completed 5.11a. Fun route.
Middle Section of the cliff. Probably will hold mainly 5.13 and harder routes. The bolted arete on the left is supposedly 5.13+.
[Hide Photo] Middle Section of the cliff. Probably will hold mainly 5.13 and harder routes. The bolted arete on the left is supposedly 5.13+.
One of the locals
[Hide Photo] One of the locals
Jayson, Kirsten and Haley at the hang with a midday BBQ.
[Hide Photo] Jayson, Kirsten and Haley at the hang with a midday BBQ.
Cliff band from the road.
[Hide Photo] Cliff band from the road.
Technical and hard face up to cool moves through the roof. Probably 5.13 area once completed.
[Hide Photo] Technical and hard face up to cool moves through the roof. Probably 5.13 area once completed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] I think we should rename the cliff, "The Garden Animals Cliff".

This place is loaded with life: snakes, bees, wasps, scorpions, mice, bats, hummingbirds, blue tailed skinks. Apr 22, 2016
Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR
[Hide Comment] Also mosquitos...bug spray should be part of the standard early season rack! Apr 28, 2016
[Hide Comment] Went here recently and could not find the way back to the cliff, ended up just bouldering because that's all we could find haha. Can anyone give us directions to the cliff from the bouldering area? Jul 25, 2016
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] You walk past the boulders on the road for 100 yards, and then the trail is to the left. You can see the cliff from the road. Jul 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the help Micah! Hopefully the crew and I can find it this Sunday when we head back. Jul 26, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] An updated pdf guide for the area can be found at:

dropbox.com/sh/0cnzxuuqe15r…

It includes directions and topos. I hope to keep updating it as more routes go in on the cliff. Aug 4, 2016
Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR
[Hide Comment] For the traveling climber, abundant primitive roadside camping exists beginning about 20 minutes up Quartzville Rd. from the crag, with sites getting better the further up you go. Unfortunately trash appears to be a problem in some of these so if you feel like doing community service bring an extra garbage bag with you. There are many excellent swimming holes along the Wild and Scenic Quartzville Creek as well, making for a perfect afternoon chill out after a morning of sending at the Garden. Aug 29, 2016
[Hide Comment] Climbed here yesterday, had an awesome time. The style is very similar to the Garden boulders. I'm sure most people who have bouldered at the Garden have looked over at these cliffs and wondered... kudos to the developers for putting up some fun and engaging sport climbing up there. Aug 31, 2016
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] Some one cut the extra lengths off of several of the fixed ropes that have been used to put up most of these routes. It was a very odd and random act of vandalism that didn't make any sense to me, but will make it more costly and time consuming to continue developing the routes. If anyone knows anything about this I would obviously like to know. If anyone has concerns about any of the development at the Garden Cliff I am happy to talk about it. Despite this annoyance I had a fantastic day climbing and am pretty sure that the cliff just needs 24 hours for enough routes to be dry and climbable. Feb 12, 2017
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] There is no longer a community stick clip. Someone stole the stick clip for the second time. Hopefully, it will be returned. Dec 11, 2017
[Hide Comment] So I don't know how long it's been since anyone other than me has been to the cliffs but there's a good bit of thorn to walk through, there's a bunch of tools laying around, and the ropes that are there are getting kinda bad. Also, me being me, I decided to free solo a short section and if you plan to do the same, be ready to down climb, because it's super overgrown and dirty at the top of the cliffs. Finally, because the property is privately owned, please don't leave anything laying around. I walked out with several bottles and food wrappers, as well as a pair of socks. Mar 3, 2019
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
[Hide Comment] Hey Tristan. I'm not your mom, but free soloing at this area is really stupid. The area is still being developed and I have personally witnessed more than one hold pop off unexpectedly. Holds breaking is even more common in the winter/early season since freeze thaw cycles can loosen previously solid rock. I'm not gonna tell you what to do but I don't consider this cliff face to be solid enough for soloing. Mar 4, 2019
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] Please do not hike up onto the rock outcropping with the trees to the right of John Henry's Hammer. The trees provide shade for the right side of the cliff and their roots are highly susceptible to erosion. Aug 27, 2019
Trinidad Collier
Denali, AK
[Hide Comment] Hey I just wanted to say a big thank you to Jayson for developing this area! I’ve been climbing here a number of times now, and many of the routes are really fantastic! Sooo appreciate people like you! Nov 8, 2019
Eli W
Oregon
[Hide Comment] If you’re looking to get on any of the easy routes, bring clippers, leather gloves, and long sleeves, maybe a machete or hedgetrimmers too.

Thunderdome and Cabbage Patch have been overtaken by blackberries at the base, and Fairy Tale has blackberries encroaching on half the routes.

The area closer to the road is in good shape. Sep 9, 2022
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] So I don't know why those specific Xs are there, but the Garden has a history of seasonal wasp nests on some of the climbs, so it could be that. Otherwise it's probably loose rock somewhere on the route. Sep 15, 2023
Micah Elconin
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] Hey all,

If you’re looking to keep those nuts tight, I highly recommend using blue loctite thread locker when you tighten.

The stainless steel is slick and quite prone to loosening. I used to have the same problem with many of the bolts I placed, but after I find that the thread locker solves 95% of the problem.

Make sure you use the blue stuff (removable), not the red (high strength).

Hope that helps. Nov 7, 2023
Dylan Poppy
Sweet home
[Hide Comment] As of 1/30/24 theres a big swarm wasps looking to build a hive, they where engulfing all of my secret garden all the way to hive & we had few swarm us while in the fee fo fi fum area, hopefully they go away, perhaps we could build fake wasp nests as waps are territorial & maybe that would detour them for when the warmer weather actually stays? I dunno just an idea

Of which fee fo fi fum had a hanger removed? The bolts fine not sure what happened to the hanger maybe it fell off or someone took it for another climb? Either way looking to replace but am dirt bag with no job or money so if someone could please fix it that would be dank !

Ice storm Early in 24 didn't do too much to the trees one tree fell next to John Henry's n some smaller stuff walking down the stairs case into the castle black area! Lots of dirtyness along the walls as everything melted from above. Jan 31, 2024
Willamette Area Climbers Coalition
Willamette Valley, OR
[Hide Comment] WACC has implemented a form for reporting bad hardware: willametteclimbers.org/clim… Mar 16, 2026
Garret McLean
Keizer, OR
[Hide Comment] As of today, most of the Cabbage Patch/Thunderdome routes have been cleaned and the trail has been cut. The trail is still a bit of an adventure, but if you want to climb easy slab, it’s available now. May 9, 2026