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This series of cliffs lies about three hundred feet north on Quartzville Drive from the bouldering area. The cliff is 30 to 70 feet tall and can be seen from Quartzville Drive through a marsh of blackberries just north of the boulders. The cliff consists of three areas separated by gullies: the Garden Cliff, the Fairy Tale Wall, and the Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Most of the established climbs are on the Garden Cliff, which is the first cliff that you come to.
Parking: There is a small parking area directly across from the trail. If people park at an angle it can hold six cars. Parallel parking drops it down to three cars.
Toilet: You'll pass several opportunities to poop as you drive to the cliff, use one of them. Please do not create a new trail to find some privacy for your needs. Do not pee next to the cliff as it overhangs enough that much of it is dry all year long.
Most of the routes are sport climbs with high first bolts meant to be stick clipped.
Toproping. Two routes on the Fairy Tale Wall can be accessed via a 5-easy offwidth. A Garden Called Peace (10a) provides access to toproping several other climbs. John Henry's Hammer (10c/d) provides access to toprope several harder climbs.
Trails: Please stay on the trails and try to keep all of your stuff in worn areas. Do not step on any vegetation. The developers have worked hard to build sustainable trails that minimally impact the land. There are several zones of flat ground that are nice spaces to hang out in and organize gear in: Scorpions, Fight Club, Slithering, Nachash, the ledge of 5.10s, and way out left on Johnny Cash's Thunderdome. Use these spaces and don't create any new ones. Do not use hammocks or damage any trees in any way. The trees make climbing in the summer possible. There is a community set of hedge trimmers and the battle with the blackberries never ends. Please trim the blackberries back from the trail. The clippers have now walked off.
There is a guidebook that is updated at the cliff in a crack. It comes and goes.
Routes with ropes hanging on them or red ribbon tied to the first bolt are closed projects. Please respect the closure until the routes are listed here, not all of the closed projects are listed on Mountain Project, but all of the open ones are.
Feel free to contact the route developers via MP.
The Garden Cliff
This is the first cliff that you come to, has the majority of climbs, and has the best climbs. Many shady climbs throughout the day.
About one-third of the routes will be dry 24 hours after it has rained in the winter. Several of the climbs are wet well into the summer.
The Fairy Tale Wall
The second cliff with only a handful of rather short climbs, but maybe a few more to come. Not much shade.
The Cabbage Patch/Johnny Cash's Thunderdome
The third cliff, currently under development with a handful of routes. No shade. Right of the waterfall is the Cabbage Patch, left is Johnny Cash's Thunderdome.
Behind the Garden Cliffs. Trail is to the east, about 80 yards down the road from a small pullout parking spot on the cliff side.
Here is a link to a GPS Track that you can view, or even download to your phone and follow.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Stop once to wipe the sweat… |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● A million dollars of good |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● I will let you down |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | ||
| ● I fell for you like a child |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● Kim Chi Corner |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Babaganoush |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Tabouli |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Don't Forget the Nooch |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport | ||
| ● Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● The Feather of Finist the F… |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● The Death of Koschei the De… |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Raining Shit |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad | ||
| ● Baba Yaga |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport | ||
| ● Hive |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● A Garden Called Peace |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Nest |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● My Secret Garden |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Fertile Crescent |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Ovulation Send-sation |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Meniscus Terror (Open Project) |
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Vandals in the Graveyard |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Criss Cross Applesauce |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Honey Comb Traverse |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Honeycomb (Open Project) |
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● My Empire of Dirt |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● The Seraphim Nachash |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Castle Black |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● The Littlest Birds |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Whirlybird (open project) |
|
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport | ||
| ● Chimeras |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Heirloom |
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport | ||
| ● The Vine (Open Project) |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7 Sport, Mixed | ||
| ● Lenticular Cloud |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Rain Shadow |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Wildlings |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Lazarus |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● The Stasis Chamber |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Slithering Skink |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Butterfly Effect |
|
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport | ||
| ● Cutting Crack |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Fight Club (Round Two) |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | ||
| ● Anaphylactic Shock |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad | ||
| ● Blackberry Jam |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | ||
| ● Community |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● Daring to Fly |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● The Scorpion Hitchhikers To… |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Snug as a Snail |
|
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Scorpion Revenge |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Linkup John to Snug |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Yggdrasil |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● John Henry's Hammer |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Ladybug |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Bonsai |
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport |
Monterey, CA
This place is loaded with life: snakes, bees, wasps, scorpions, mice, bats, hummingbirds, blue tailed skinks. Apr 22, 2016
Redmond, OR
Charlotte, NC
Monterey, CA
dropbox.com/sh/0cnzxuuqe15r…
It includes directions and topos. I hope to keep updating it as more routes go in on the cliff. Aug 4, 2016
Redmond, OR
Oregon
Monterey, CA
Monterey, CA
Corvallis, Or
Monterey, CA
Denali, AK
Oregon
Thunderdome and Cabbage Patch have been overtaken by blackberries at the base, and Fairy Tale has blackberries encroaching on half the routes.
The area closer to the road is in good shape. Sep 9, 2022
Charlotte, NC
Eugene, OR
If you’re looking to keep those nuts tight, I highly recommend using blue loctite thread locker when you tighten.
The stainless steel is slick and quite prone to loosening. I used to have the same problem with many of the bolts I placed, but after I find that the thread locker solves 95% of the problem.
Make sure you use the blue stuff (removable), not the red (high strength).
Hope that helps. Nov 7, 2023
Sweet home
Of which fee fo fi fum had a hanger removed? The bolts fine not sure what happened to the hanger maybe it fell off or someone took it for another climb? Either way looking to replace but am dirt bag with no job or money so if someone could please fix it that would be dank !
Ice storm Early in 24 didn't do too much to the trees one tree fell next to John Henry's n some smaller stuff walking down the stairs case into the castle black area! Lots of dirtyness along the walls as everything melted from above. Jan 31, 2024
Willamette Valley, OR
Keizer, OR