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Routes in Railroad Cut

Arachnophobia S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Powder Express S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chosswrangler's Crack V3 6A PG13
Chris Hanger S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Engineer 1872 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fly Flies S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footwork Footsmerk S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
James Brown's Funky Railway Ride S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Judge, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Memorial Route, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not-a-Tunnel Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soul Train S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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GPS: 43.315, -72.033 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,654 total · 122/month
Shared By: Eli . on Sep 23, 2015 with updates from Alan Emery
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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The Low-Down

The Newbury Cut was originally created in 1872 as a path for a train running through the Lake Sunapee area. The routes are bolted safely and nestled in the actual railroad cut, often parallel to each other. All the routes on these cliffs can be accessed from the top, and provided you have enough webbing you will be able to safely top rope everything in the Cut. Moss and small pebbles of loose rock can be a problem here primarily due to the fact that this location has previously been rarely climbed at, though it seems to be gaining some attention recently.

Due to the way the cut was created (blasted with black powder) many of the routes here are very strange feeling in terms of the way they climb and the direction of the holds. The Newbury Cut is best defined by it's blocky and directionally dependent holds that often require subtle body tension to get just right. Better said, it's pretty funky. The Cut has some excellent and definitely testy routes in the 5.10 range. Do not expect to be able to climb well here your first time through.

Due to the aspect, water table, and seasons you will find yourself mostly unable to enjoy climbing the routes on the left side of the Cut from April until it becomes drier in late August.

One word of warning: if you can not look (and climb) past contrivances on the bolted lines there are several routes that will feel too easy for the grade, and also very unsatisfying.

Getting There

To reach the bolted lines, park as for the directions of "The Newbury Cut" and walk down a path on the left into the Cut.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Railroad Cut

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Black Powder Express
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Footwork Footsmerk
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Soul Train
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Fly Flies
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
The Judge
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Chris Hanger
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Powder Express
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Footwork Footsmerk
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Soul Train
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fly Flies
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
The Judge
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Chris Hanger
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Railroad Cut »

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Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
I saw a set of anchors, not a bolted route, further down the right side after James Brown Funky Railroad Ride. Anyone know what this is called - grade? Going to try to hop on it today. Jul 30, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
I totally agree with Eli's description of the climbing at Newbury Cut. From NC to Maine, this is the one area that does not feel like any other area I've climbed at. If you are up to testing your technique, or want to add more techniques to your skill set, you should climb here. Jul 30, 2017

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