Elevation: 1,050 ft
GPS: 43.315, -72.033 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,653 total · 346/month
Shared By: Cyrus Kalvaitis on Mar 12, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Newbury Cutts was originally a route for a train running through Newbury. So the climbing offered is on two 50 foot walls with a straight track running through the middle. When you arrive, you will be parked at the top of the cliff, and should follow a footpath down to the gorge. The area is not usually sunny and often wet, but if you pick a good day, you can be rewarded with some of the most funky and fun 5.10s anywhere.

The climbing offered is super closely bolted routes leading to well placed anchors or a walk around back to the bottom of the cliff. Because the cliff was blasted around a hundred years ago, the climbs are steep and quite blocky. Loose rock can still be found, but the area is decently solid. One or two easier routes are offered, but the majority of the climbing is in the 5.10 range. The routes are strange but can offer extremely creative and fun moves, with bolts every five or ten feet!

Make sure you respect the area and your fellow climbers! This is a small local area with very limited parking. Do not try to park more cars than will naturally fit. Carpool or come back another time. Respect gets respect!

Getting There

Drive through Newbury NH along Route 103 South towards Bradford. After passing through the town of Newbury the speed limit will change from a 30 mph zone to a 50 mph zone. Pass the sign and as you come around the immediate left bend in the road, the parking area will be a dirt pull off right there on your right. Pull off the side of the road and pull up the hill as far as you safely can! Make sure you leave the road plenty of room, as well as leaving a spot for anyone else who wants to climb! There will be a footpath down to the bottom of the cliff on the right side of the cliff, or you could rappel down from the many anchors at the top!

Protection

From user afemery: Replaced the missing anchor with a new one with a rap ring included. Placed 6 3/8" SS Quick Links at the anchors of 3 other climbs which only have hangers as anchors.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Newbury Cut

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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