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Areas in The Newbury Cut

Cut Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Far Wall, The 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Railroad Cut 1 / 9 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Swamp Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 1,050 ft
GPS: 43.315, -72.033 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,054 total · 204/month
Shared By: Cyrus Kalvaitis on Mar 12, 2015 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

Newbury Cutts was originally a route for a train running through Newbury. So the climbing offered is on two 50 foot walls with a straight track running through the middle. When you arrive, you will be parked at the top of the cliff, and should follow a footpath down to the gorge. The area is not usually sunny and often wet, but if you pick a good day, you can be rewarded with some of the most funky and fun 5.10s anywhere.

The climbing offered is super closely bolted routes leading to well placed anchors or a walk around back to the bottom of the cliff. Because the cliff was blasted around a hundred years ago, the climbs are steep and quite blocky. Loose rock can still be found, but the area is decently solid. One or two easier routes are offered, but the majority of the climbing is in the 5.10 range. The routes are strange but can offer extremely creative and fun moves, with bolts every five or ten feet!

Make sure you respect the area and your fellow climbers! This is a small local area with very limited parking. Do not try to park more cars than will naturally fit. Carpool or come back another time. Respect gets respect!

Getting There

Drive through Newbury NH along Route 103 South towards Bradford. After passing through the town of Newbury the speed limit will change from a 30 mph zone to a 50 mph zone. Pass the sign and as you come around the immediate left bend in the road, the parking area will be a dirt pull off right there on your right. Pull off the side of the road and pull up the hill as far as you safely can! Make sure you leave the road plenty of room, as well as leaving a spot for anyone else who wants to climb! There will be a footpath down to the bottom of the cliff on the right side of the cliff, or you could rappel down from the many anchors at the top!

Protection

From user afemery: Replaced the missing anchor with a new one with a rap ring included. Placed 6 3/8" SS Quick Links at the anchors of 3 other climbs which only have hangers as anchors.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Newbury Cut

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Just added SS Oval Chain Links to the quick links. Someone placed a couple of Omega Aluminum Rap Rings to one set of SS Quick Links. I replaced them with the SS Ovals and clipped the rap rings to other gear left hanging in a tree. Jul 26, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Thanks for the link Mark. I will seriously consider your remarks about the blind leading the blind.

I have spoken to a handful of locals and nobody knows who is doing what, as if things just appear from one day to the next. A few have contacted me through email and said just go for it. They show up now and then to replace the older hangers with newer ones, as they did this year ... all bright and shiny hangers everywhere.

When I went to purchase the quick links, there were only a few to be bought, so I thought that spreading them around is better than re-threading through the hanger. I will get back there to add to it. I could not find any SS o-rings anywhere in my area, so will need to order them. Until they come in, what is there is better than what was there. Jul 7, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Here is a link to Dave's site for the pigtails and bolts: team-tough.com/ I'd personally go slow contacting the land managers before getting a sense of the lay of the land from other locals. Sometimes that just needlessly stirs up a hornet's nest.

If going with quicklinks, you will need two on each bolt, or one and a SS ring or beefy logging chain link (don't use those aluminum rap rings). Single ones on each bolt are better than bare hangers, but will twist the hell out of the rope. Your idea of the pigtails seems best to me, though, with the apparent blind leading the blind factor there they probably won't be used correctly. Jul 5, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Replaced the missing anchor with another hanger that included a rap ring. Placed 3/8" SS Quick Links at the top of 3 climbs that only had hangers for anchors. Jul 3, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Thanks Jeff. Submitted what I have found so far. Will be climbing there Monday and will take a much closer look at the area.

Mark, I will ask at the town hall if they know who the land manager is and contact this person.

Where can I find the pigtails used at Rumney? I did a search, but not sure what the real name is. Rams horns didn't bring up any results either. This may be the answer to replace using hangers as anchors. Jul 2, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Land manager? Jul 1, 2017
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
afemery, use the Improve This Page button near the top of the page for any areas or routes you think can be improved. The original submitted should get an e-mail and have a chance to consider your improvements. Otherwise, add routes that haven't been submitted and make comments on routes/areas to voice your thoughts. Hope this helps! Jul 1, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Who manages the area? I'd like to contact them about adding more routes and improving the area. Is there a contact person or group? I live in Lebanon and would be more than happy to assist. Jul 1, 2017
Jonathon Davidson
claremont, new hampshire
Jonathon Davidson   claremont, new hampshire
I climb at the cut every sunday, Saturdays I go to rumney. your more than welcome to stop by and say hi. I drive a silver chevy cruze. im usually somewere on the wall with my climbing partner. it could use some work, a few more routes could be placed. but for now its nice and quite and local. Jun 26, 2016
zwms  
Anyone here a "local" at the Cut? I'm over in Claremont, and this is fast becoming my go-to crag for after work stuff.

I'm thinking about poking around about improving the conditions on the trail leading into the cut. For those that know the spot, the drainage is pretty terrible. Any interest or tips? May 16, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Zac, I don't know anything about ice here, but I'm almost 100% sure it would form. I'll let you know when I start actually ice climbing. Oct 5, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
How about ice routes here? Oct 2, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
I have decided that I actually really like climbing here. It is quiet, the climbs are pretty cerebral, and the holds are very different than anywhere else. Many routes might be pretty contrived, it is pretty dirty, and the whole crag was artificially created with dynamite in 1872, but damn if it isn't fun and unique. Sep 22, 2015
Yeah, thats true and totally reasonable. I don't think this place should be abandoned, I'm just saying a local kid (not a climber) died here and its a small enough spot, I don't know if its worth attracting a lot of people. I just wanted to put the info out there so if people do go check it out they can be aware/respectful of the memorial. In any case, it's a sweet little spot. But watch out for spiders... they're huuuge. Theres also a pretty big boulder with anchors on the top. From the road its past the cut and a bit to the left. Jul 20, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is sad the boy died, but if people go overboard leaving every spot where someone died as only a memorial, there won't be any spots left on the Earth. A place can be a memorial and a place of joyful use at the same time. Jul 20, 2015
I feel like putting this area on mountain project is not good. I thinks it's cool that people want to develop climbing areas, I understand that locals can't keep everything "locals only" forever. That being said, a boy lost his life here 3 or 4 years ago. From what I understand, he was walking at night and couldn't see where the cliffs began. There is a memorial bench and flowers for him, maintained by the family. I really feel like this is one place that is a classic local spot, but also a place of sadness. Publicizing and developing the cut seems like a bad idea. Jul 20, 2015
Andrew O'Brien
newport
Andrew O'Brien   newport
Found this place yesterday. Not very big at all but perfect for someone local who doesn't want to travel. I like it because it's less then 10 miles from my house and is easy to set up a solo top-rope.

It's still a little wet in some areas and all the ground but a few dry routes. Skeeters are pretty thick but I don't worry about stuff like that! Jul 9, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Heading out to the cut today to draw up a topo, take pictures of the routes, clean dirt and cobwebs, and document the rest of this place so that at least the information on here will be useful as it appears as though the original poster has not continued with his documentation of the area. If the info is going to exist on this place it may as well be good info. Jun 22, 2015

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