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Routes in The Loading Zone

2nd Street Scene T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackout S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blow By T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bohemian Blvd. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cafe Society T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Code Brown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corner Shot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deviant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eat Crow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Festivs T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Finger Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freebie Jeebies T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Great White S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lady Fantasy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loading Zone, The T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
MInor Munginella T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Scatmando T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serenity Now T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Staggering for Justice TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sure Thing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Idiots Traverse, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yesterday's Man T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
flash lingo T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Description

Fine-grained volcanic basalt, 70' (+/-) tall, this crag is a great place to tune one's trad skills. All routes are accessible from the top. If toproping, bring additional slings/webbing, as not all routes have bolted belays.

Sun and shade are seasonal, one can almost always find one or the other, as the crag is south west facing and at points shaded by tall trees. All climbs top out on large plateau with walk off to climbers right. Access trail to the top starts on the other side of a wet/boggy area to climbers right.

As the years have progressed, and the area climbed more often, the sometimes dirty rock has cleaned up quite nicely. Beware of the occasional loose rock, dirt, and wildlife.
Access road is not plowed in winter Details

Getting There

See directions on the main Warner Valley page.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Loading Zone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
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Photos

Muscrat    
Not sure who the (expletive deleted, expletive deleted, expletive deleted,) were that did what they did at Loading Zone, but don't get caught pulling shit like that no-mo. Trash, tape labels at the base of every climb, Eco terrorism (plants and trees smashed, a BS 'bridge' built across the wet spot, etc). If you don't know how to behave in nature, or at the crags, stay home. Aug 17, 2015

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