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The Three Idiots Traverse
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in The Loading Zone
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2nd Street Scene T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackout S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blow By T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Bohemian Blvd. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cafe Society T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Code Brown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corner Shot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deviant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eat Crow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Festivs T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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flash lingo T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Freebie Jeebies T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Great White S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Io's Hidden Pleasure Point S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lady Fantasy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Loading Zone, The T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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MInor Munginella T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Project TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Scatmando T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Serenity Now T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Staggering for Justice TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sure Thing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Idiots Traverse, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Traitor Horn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yesterday's Man T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.393, -121.3078 |
| FA: | Jadian, Jesse Patton, Mike Vinci Germar |
| Page Views: | 894 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Muscrat on Jun 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Access road is not plowed in winter
Details
Description
SO there they were, end of the day, enjoying a beer and/or cider, talking about the things we talk about after some good redpoints, and SOMEONE came up with the idiotic idea of doing a traverse of the whole wall. And off they went.
The crux is at the very end, passing under "Loading Zone", a no feet thin hand crack. The whole is quite entertaining, with a lot of thought needed to protect it well while reducing rope drag. Stay high enough to avoid groundfall potential.
P1) 5.8 Go as far as you can until the rope drag keeps you from moving. Lower off.
P2) 5.10- The follower is as exposed as the leader: It's a traverse!
Location
Starting at the far left of the wall, climb up ~15', and begin moving right. The route stays under the lower roofs across the wall. When the rope drag becomes unbearable, lower off, and bring the follower along. Ends after passing under the roof below the route "Loading Zone" before the rock becomes a jumble of weeds and moss. The follower must downclimb the end, moving protection down with him/her.
1 Comment