Warner Valley Rock Climbing

The Warner Valley has a lifetime of rock...99% of it volcanic choss. However, there are several small crags boasting excellent, fine-grained basalt. The two main crags are the Loading Zone, which primarily features 5.7-5.10 gear routes, and the newly-developed Fallout Zone, which primarily features bolted routes in the 5.10-5.12 range. The Fallout Zone is directly above/behind the Loading Zone and it's quite easy to visit both in a day.

Both crags face west and sit at 5200' elevation. Spring to fall is the prime time to visit - the road becomes impassable due to snow in the winter. Shade is easy to find, as the area is heavily treed, and it's generally climbable even on the hottest of days.

PG&E owns the land that the Loading Zone is on, and there are signs at the crag stating "No Camping". However, if you take a right at the last road split (see "Getting There" directions) and head up the hill, there are plenty of spots for dispersed camping. The closest developed campground is the Warner Valley Campground, which is a few miles north and technically within Lassen Volcanic National Park.

For information on the Loading Zone and other crags in the Lassen area, see "Rock Climbs of Northeast California" by Paul Bernard et al.