Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 40.393, -121.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,485 total · 83/month
Shared By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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The Warner Valley has a lifetime of rock...99% of it volcanic choss. However, there are several small crags boasting excellent, fine-grained basalt. The two main crags are the Loading Zone, which primarily features 5.7-5.10 gear routes, and the newly-developed Fallout Zone, which primarily features bolted routes in the 5.10-5.12 range. The Fallout Zone is directly above/behind the Loading Zone and it's quite easy to visit both in a day.

Both crags face west and sit at 5200' elevation. Spring to fall is the prime time to visit - the road becomes impassable due to snow in the winter. Shade is easy to find, as the area is heavily treed, and it's generally climbable even on the hottest of days.

PG&E owns the land that the Loading Zone is on, and there are signs at the crag stating "No Camping". However, if you take a right at the last road split (see "Getting There" directions) and head up the hill, there are plenty of spots for dispersed camping. The closest developed campground is the Warner Valley Campground, which is a few miles north and technically within Lassen Volcanic National Park.

For information on the Loading Zone and other crags in the Lassen area, see "Rock Climbs of Northeast California" by Paul Bernard et al.

Getting There

From the town of Chester, take Feather River Drive towards Lassen N.P. and Drakesbad (don’t head toward Juniper Lake). The first one-lane bridge you come to is called “High Bridge and is about 5.5 miles from the town of Chester. Approximately 0.6 miles past this bridge, the road forks; take the right fork towards Drakesbad and Warner Valley. About 3 miles after the fork you will come to a second one-lane bridge. 1/4 mile after this second bridge, take a right on a dirt road, which forks shortly after the turnoff. Take the left fork onto a smaller dirt road (4WD recommended) and follow for another 1/4 mile to the base of the Loading Zone.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Warner Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point Loading Zone
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
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Daniel Wade
Oakland, CA.
Daniel Wade   Oakland, CA.
We climbed here on May 30, 2014. Great area and many moderate cracks as the description suggests. I lead what I think was a 5.7 crack (thin to wide) on the left side of the feature (perhaps Finger Crack). We TR'd from an anchor I built a slightly harder lie-back on the right (perhaps Black Crack 5.8) and a deceptively easy overhanging off width to the left (perhaps Sure Thing 5.7). There is a set of bolts on the top of the middle of the wall which allows for a TR of an overhanging jam crack/lieback - probably the most striking line when looking at the wall from below. It felt like 5.10 (perhaps Lady Fantasy?). We also TR'd an easy (5.7 - perhaps Second Street Scene) crack to the right. Plenty for lines for a trip back. See also rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…. Jun 3, 2014