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Routes in Torre Venezia

South Face - Tissi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
South-West ArĂȘte (Andrich/Fae) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 7,100 ft
Page Views: 602 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Nov 25, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description

Torre Venezia is one of the most attractive rock peaks of the Dolomites. There are several very well-known climbs that have had reams of paper and ink describe them. Best known of these routes is the Tissi-Andrich-Bertoli Route (UIAA Gr. VI-) on the South face of the mountain; the historic Castiglioni-Kahn route (UIAA Gr. IV) was established in 1925, which follows a subsidiary buttress and chimney system on the W. face. Another well known route is the Andrich-Fae on the SW Arete (UIAA Gr. V+).

Torre Venezia is a stunning tower of rock jutting up from South-west ridge line of Civetta. While the routes here are not a serious as Civetta (shorter, no ice climbing needed) the mountain still has no summit access except by class 5 rock climbing. Full alpine rock skills are neccessary for ascent(dealing with inclement weather, complex route finding, loose rock, long run-outs). The tower sits directly above a busy trekking route and popular Rifugio so can be quite busy. On the other hand, the easy access also allows for comfortable camping (in the Rifugio) with a bar at the base of the climb making this a uniquely European experience.

Getting There

Drive to Listolade (South of Cecenighe, north of Agordo). From here turn North East through town onto a narrow road heading to Capanna Trieste. Park just past the restaurant. Hike up to Vazzoler hut on trail 555 (90 minutes). The hut sits just below the south east end of the tower. To get to the routes continue on trail 560 beyond the hut in the direction of Rifugio Tissi. After 15 minutes you will come to an open road under the south face of Torre Venezia. From here you can access the wall via the scree and boulder fields. To access the West face continue another 20 minutes up the road to a large meadow and hike up the hill above the meadow to get to the West face.

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I hiked in to the Vazzoler hut in late Summer, and found it was closed at that time. The trail in wasn't too challenging for carrying a moderate pack. I took a secondary path back to my car through the thinly wooded terrain and was amazed at the large number of "little brown snakes," which I later learned were European Common Adders (vipera berus)! I carefully avoided them, having noticed the characteristic triangular heads somewhat reminiscent of Copperheads. So...be advised! These snakes have a hemotoxic venom; the most frequent victims of snakebite in Italy are hikers, campers, and agricultural field workers. Apr 10, 2013
The best English language source of information for climbs on Torre Venezia is the now-out-of-print classic, Classic Dolomite Climbs, Annette Kohler, and Norbert Memel. The Tissi South Face is included as climb number 74, and the Andrich-Fae SW Arete is climb number 73. Much of my information is somewhat dated, and was based on an old German language guide that I used while touring the Dolomites many years ago. Apr 10, 2013

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