Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Torre Venezia

International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Civetta Group

Description

A very large rock fall has impacted several of the routes on the South Face or Torre Venezia.  In particular, portions of the classic Via Tissi, Grand Diedro and Grand Diedro-Diretta routes appear to have been erased.  For more details see the following link:  https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/rockfall-dolomites-torre-venezia-damages-via-tissi-other-classic-civetta-climbs.html

Torre Venezia is one of the most attractive rock peaks of the Dolomites. There are several very well-known climbs that have had reams of paper and ink describe them. Best known of these routes is the Tissi-Andrich-Bertoli Route (UIAA Gr. VI-) on the South face of the mountain; the historic Castiglioni-Kahn route (UIAA Gr. IV) was established in 1925, which follows a subsidiary buttress and chimney system on the W. face. Another well known route is the Andrich-Fae on the SW Arete (UIAA Gr. V+).

Torre Venezia is a stunning tower of rock jutting up from South-west ridge line of Civetta. While the routes here are not a serious as Civetta (shorter, no ice climbing needed) the mountain still has no summit access except by class 5 rock climbing. Full alpine rock skills are necessary for ascent(dealing with inclement weather, complex route finding, loose rock, long run-outs). The tower sits directly above a busy trekking route and popular Rifugio so can be quite busy. On the other hand, the easy access also allows for comfortable camping (in the Rifugio) with a bar at the base of the climb making this a uniquely European experience.

Getting There

Drive to Listolade (South of Cecenighe, north of Agordo). From here turn North East through town onto a narrow road heading to Capanna Trieste. Park just past the restaurant. Hike up to Vazzoler hut on trail 555 (90 minutes). The hut sits just below the south east end of the tower. To get to the routes continue on trail 560 beyond the hut in the direction of Rifugio Tissi. After 15 minutes you will come to an open road under the south face of Torre Venezia. From here you can access the wall via the scree and boulder fields. To access the West face continue another 20 minutes up the road to a large meadow and hike up the hill above the meadow to get to the West face.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
South-West ArĂȘte (Andrich/Fae)
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 3
South Face - Tissi
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South-West ArĂȘte (Andrich/F…
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
South Face - Tissi
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 15 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The big meadow with bouldering in it below Punta Agordo and Torre Venezia. Sneak 100 meters downhill into a smaller meadow for a night time bivy site.
[Hide Photo] The big meadow with bouldering in it below Punta Agordo and Torre Venezia. Sneak 100 meters downhill into a smaller meadow for a night time bivy site.
A view of Torre Venezia from the approach trail
[Hide Photo] A view of Torre Venezia from the approach trail
Torre Venezia West Face
[Hide Photo] Torre Venezia West Face
The soaring south face of Torre Venezia(Aug. 2008).
[Hide Photo] The soaring south face of Torre Venezia(Aug. 2008).
A view from Moiazza looking down on Torre Venezia - the "Circular Terrace" can be seen near the summit. The descent (3-6 rappels) is on the shadowed face and then the gully between Torre Venezia and Punta Agordo
[Hide Photo] A view from Moiazza looking down on Torre Venezia - the "Circular Terrace" can be seen near the summit. The descent (3-6 rappels) is on the shadowed face and then the gully between Torre Venezia an…
Map of the area
[Hide Photo] Map of the area

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] The best English language source of information for climbs on Torre Venezia is the now-out-of-print classic, Classic Dolomite Climbs, Annette Kohler, and Norbert Memel. The Tissi South Face is included as climb number 74, and the Andrich-Fae SW Arete is climb number 73. Much of my information is somewhat dated, and was based on an old German language guide that I used while touring the Dolomites many years ago. Apr 10, 2013
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] I hiked in to the Vazzoler hut in late Summer, and found it was closed at that time. The trail in wasn't too challenging for carrying a moderate pack. I took a secondary path back to my car through the thinly wooded terrain and was amazed at the large number of "little brown snakes," which I later learned were European Common Adders (vipera berus)! I carefully avoided them, having noticed the characteristic triangular heads somewhat reminiscent of Copperheads. So...be advised! These snakes have a hemotoxic venom; the most frequent victims of snakebite in Italy are hikers, campers, and agricultural field workers. Apr 10, 2013