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Routes in Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaway)

Investment, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Elevation: 2,294 ft
GPS: 43.952, -71.362 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 791 total · 21/month
Shared By: bradley white on Nov 20, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall


Square ledge is a 150-200 foot rock band that has not been explored much. Access 3+ miles. 1.9 can be biked but what to do with bikes not a good idea like at the Captain. The ledge has several routes. Being within the Sandwhich Mt. Range Wilderness means no fixed gear. Mostly has upper half disconnecting cracks and minimal climbing features. Its very steep and smooth faced making it seem impenetrable almost everywhere. Adventure climbing at Square ledge has been published in Stewart Green's 'Climbing New England' of all places here it is to be found. This is the other Square Ledge and also named New Square Ledge. Much hidden here to offer success of finding a route that will summit unless you're Ray Rice. Thanks to Ray there is the 100 foot 'Race Crack' at 5.12 with multiple roofs and gear? Ray Rices routes are hearsay of long stretch between placements starting at 5.10. Finding 'Race Crack' likely will be challenging.

Getting There

1.9 miles Oliverian Brook Trail to Square Ledge cut off about 1 mile.

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bradley white   Bend
Some wilderness areas are no drilling, rock removal, pitons and fixed trad shouldn't be there. has a great photo of the expanse of this ledge. Nov 21, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Looks like it is the same. The place looks amazing. I have been meaning to take a hike in and have a look. It's too bad a bunch of the routes protection had to be removed since it was in wilderness where you can't use a power drill. I wonder if they can be put back in by hand.

Edit - From what I can see so far, fixed protection is allowed, just not power drills… see pg 22. I know there was a bolt issue at Big Rck Cave (also in the Sandwich Notch Wilderness), but I am still not clear if this area has more stringent rules than listed in the plan or not. Personally, I don't mind that some areas don't have bolts at all, as long it is only in very special cases, that don't already have significant climbing history. Seems like a shame for this crag though. Nov 21, 2014
bradley white   Bend
Zag is on Square Ledge and cool reference site, Thanks. Our goal was Zag but didn't come close. I'll correct the millage. The cut off trail is sooner than the biking distance ends. Oliverian Brook trail 3.5 miles ends away from getting there. We rode as long as we could to get as close as we could. Had second thoughts on leaving our bikes behind for hours. Zealous climbers ignorant and then some. Bikes are not right to leave behind to make a comment. Nov 21, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Bradley, is this the same Square Ledge listed in Handren's guide… (from ) where Ray and others put up a bunch of routes before the FS jumped on them, or is this another wall further south?

As far as bicycles go, legally you can only take them in as far as the boundary to the Wilderness area I believe. Nov 21, 2014

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