Elevation: 10,400 ft
GPS: 37.76, -111.871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,454 total · 63/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 28, 2014 with updates from Boissal .
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is the secluded east-facing end of the crescent moon-shaped band of cliffs that form, in the southern half, the "Planet of the Apes", and in the northern half, "Pangaea". The walls are exceptional for their rock quality and height. There is something for everyone here! 7s to 13s, with both trad and sport routes. Even more exciting are the many fine lines awaiting development. This area is being defined as the cliffs and towers between the end of "The Planet of the Apes" at the shady, double-roofed and red clay spot, and the point or end of the cove where the "Dark Continent Area" begins.

Pangea is divided in three zones so far. As you head north along the base, you will pass minor walls and towers (the Battlements, home to only one route so far) before reaching an imposing buttress, the Celestial Keep (identified by red walls and a massive curving blade of rock 100' up). On its north end sits a small guard tower, the Star Gate Tower (home to the Lost Portal). A bit more more talus hopping gets you to the second large buttress, the Shadow Keep (slightly shorter, more red walls, a jagged skyline, and a massive dihedral), and its own guard tower, the Dark Tower. Just past the entrance to this tower you will find a chossy gully (with a couple rebar pieces which mark the bottom of the rappel route from the rim. Don't try to climb out of this gully without a fixed line, ascenders, and a general lack of regard for your well being. 

Getting There

There are three good ways to get there. First and longest is to start hiking from the Lower Jungle parking area and follow the trail along the band of cliffs. This takes about 45 minutes. Second is to go down the easy down chute at the frontier between the end of the Distant Drum Area and the beginning of The Planet of the Apes area. A map can be found for this chute on the cover page of each of these areas. Then, upon reaching the bottom of the chute and the trail, turn left or north and follow the trail through the Planet of the Apes. Third, there is a new campsite on the rim. This site (complete with fire ring and stumps to sit on) has a wood cairn on the east side of the road just past the small/old cell tower, again on the east side of the road and between the cell tower and the parking area for the "Dark Continent Area." A double track leads east to the site. From here a clearly marked trail leads to the edge of the rim. There is a short "zip" line that stretches from a tree on the rim to a chain anchor on the wall of a semi-detached tower. From here use two 60 meter ropes to rap into the "Pangaea Area."

9 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Pangaea Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Pangaea

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Pangaea »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

While in this area do not miss the "Portal" found between the wall and the "Stargate Tower. This geologic anomaly is being studied by experts in the field of volcanology. IF, however, any of you dirt-bag craggers find a way through...post here and let us all in on how you did it! Jul 29, 2014
JMaret
Southern Nevada
JMaret   Southern Nevada
The hike from the Lower Jungle parking area is sporty in a few places. Rock jumping and a funky tunnel under a significant rock fall. I enjoyed it. Jul 17, 2015