Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 37.76031, -111.87101
FA: FA: D. Stireman & A. Mollard, 7/2014 - FCA: K. Howes, 8/2014
Page Views: 1,636 total · 12/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Jul 28, 2014
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Plate tectonics is a scientific theory which describes the large-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into tectonic plates, under the influence of mantle dynamics, gravity, and Earth rotation.
On the Jungle level, it is a theory which describes the smaller-scale motion of Earth's lithosphere, broken up into choss plates, under the influence of gravity and a crowbar.

Begin this geologic adventure on top of a pedestal facing a crescent-shaped hairline crack. A series of intricate moves relying on finger locks, tiny edges and creative stems will get you off the deck and past the first bolt. The crack pinches out after a few more funky moves, forcing you up and left onto a thin face protected by two more bolts.
Catch a welcome rest in the alcove which caps this section then tackle the thin dihedral above, heading toward a jagged triangular roof. A few thuggy moves will see you through this feature, leaving you a the base of a perfect dihedral crack. Get your liebacking hat on and embark on a pumpy cruise up this ever steepening feature. If you can handle the sharp jams (no tape, the crack never opens to solid hand size), disappearing feet (stemming is cheating) and melting forearms, the anchors await after a final mantle on top of a small triangular pillar.

Note: the plate tectonics theory was found to accurately represent what we found in the 20' section under the roof. Several 100+ lbs plates and blocks drifted from the wall with very little help. The thin unprotectable dihedral capped with a house-of-cards-style roof cleaned up amazingly well, yielding jugs, solid placements, and barely enough looseness to remind you that you're in the Jungle.

Location Suggest change

The route tackles the gut of the Celestial Keep, the tallest buttress in Pangea, a free standing beast immediately left of the Star Gate Tower and the Time Portal.
It is about 200' right if the red clay spot described in Pangea directions.
A picture of the tower from the approach can be seen here

Protection Suggest change

Three bolts in the lower section.
A rack of small/medium nuts and cams from the tiniest sizes to #3 (BD). Doubles from .5 to #1 (triples handy if you want to sew it up or hate liebacking).
The grey and purple C3s are mandatory for the start (double up on these sizes if you don't trust aid gear) and a yellow mastercam will save you endless frustration.
A few runners come in handy if you place gear below the roof.

I plan on getting back up there soon to update the anchor (cordelette through bolts + 2 old biners) with chain and quicklinks. If you get there before me, the cord is fresh as of 07/2014.

Photos

loading