Primordial Lichen Soup
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 80 ft|
|FA:||A. Mollard & D. Stireman, 7/2014|
|Page Views:||496 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal on Jul 28, 2014|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Lichen Soup RecipeA consolation prize for the failed ground up attempt on Tectonic Plates, PLS turned out to be a rewarding line linking a wide variety of typical Jungle features: ultra thin cracks, loose blocks, short offwidth, slippery lichen, cryptic face climbing, you name it...
Start in a set of twin cracks formed by a stack of detached yet solid pillars. Steep face and lieback moves get you to an awkward slot with a finger crack buried at its back. The slot eventually opens into a short OW which can be tackled or bypassed to the left if you hate grunting. Both options deposit you at the base of a perfect dihedral finger crack. Scamper up this short but sweet section, enjoying the freshly scrubbed face (this used to be home to a patch of lichen so slick it felt like ice). Contemplate your options at the next stance, taking note the of large guillotine block to your right. Avoid a gruesome death (the block is actually resilient to hammer and crowbar so it could be trusted; it sports a large X at the moment) by transitioning left into a steep thin crack, eventually pulling over a bulge. Another 20' in a dihedral crack and a final mantle lead to the top of yet another detached pillar under a monster roof. Marvel at the extreme looseness around you and rejoice at the sight of beefy bolts.
I'm pretty sure I contracted a novel lung condition while cleaning the line. Hopefully it gets repeated before the lichen comes back with a vengeance. Adding a stiff wire brush to the rack might be helpful. Hopefully you enjoy your meal!
Where to cook itPLS starts 10' to the right of Tectonic Place in a set of double thin cracks in black rock. It shoots straight up to an unmistakable jagged grey roof.
The tower itself can be found immediately left of the Time Portal between the Dark Tower (to the right) and the red clay area (to the left).
Essential ingredientsBring a set of nuts and cams from the tiniest micro to a #3 (BD) with doubles from .2ish (red C3) to .75. A #4 or #5 is optional for the wide pod.
I found the purple C3 to be mandatory and the grey one to be really reassuring - this turns out to be a theme for the area, you might want to double up on those.
A pile of runners will save you from the rope drag monster.
I plan on getting back up there soon to update the anchor (cordelette through bolts + 2 old biners) with chain and quicklinks. If you get there before me, the cord is fresh as of 07/2014.