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Routes in Ruby Peak

Billy from the Hills T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boom Town T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daphne T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Fins + Towers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge indirect T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Gendarmes, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left East Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pteradon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wide Sargasso Sea T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

East facing wall nestled above Rock Creek canyon. Rock is Alpine granite ranging from exfoliating chossy gnar, to fantastic granite. Routes range from 3rd class to 5.11+. Beautiful setting worth seeing even if only going for a hike.

Getting There

From Highway 395 at Toms Place(located between mammoth lakes and Bishop just at the summit of the Sherwin grade) turn on to Rock Creek rd. Take this to its end at Mosquito Flats trail head. Head up the trail to the Mono Pass trail towards ruby lake. The turn will be on your right hand side after about ten minutes or so of brisk walking. After some switch backing and good elevation gain you will reach ruby lake. Keep in mind the main hiking trail continues to wrap up and around to the north of the lake. Instead, head cross country towards Ruby lake and Skirt the North Shore which will be to your right as you look at the lake. Be prepared for meandering a faint climbers trail through wet terrain, boulders, and annoying bushes. At this point the Ruby Wall will be apparent. When you have about reached the other side of the lake head up a decent slope and unstable ground. After some good scrambling and an accelerated heart rate you should be face to face with a very impressive alpine wall. The Hike can be done in 1.5 to 2hrs with a light rack and a very fast pace. Add at least 1 to 2 hrs if traveling heavy or if you are not acclimatized.

12 Total Climbs

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
kenr  
some Approach routes + Climbing + Descent routes now shown
- - > on this Map

currently includes ...
Sep 2, 2017
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
There is a great TR with beta photos at

supertopo.com/tr/Failures-a…

&

markpthomas.com/mountaineer… May 27, 2015
The high sierra guide by Moynier includes the ruby wall. However the topos are seriously lacking. The area is not being seriously established either. Definitely room for more routes. Jul 12, 2014
C Miller   CA  
There is coverage of this area in R. J. Secor's book - amazon.com/The-High-Sierra-… Jun 19, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Is there a guidebook that covers the area? Or is this being actively developed? Jun 19, 2014

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