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Routes in Ruby Peak

Billy from the Hills T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boom Town T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daphne T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Fins + Towers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge indirect T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Gendarmes, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left East Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pteradon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wide Sargasso Sea T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Matt Cornell, Dylan Thomas
Page Views: 784 total · 47/month
Shared By: Matt Cornell on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follows cracks, flakes, and corners up to the large ramp below the spotted red Diamond Wall. Takes the prominent wide looking crack up the left side the vertical face and onto the summit. Crux is sustained but you can find good gear in flared pods that open up in the crack and create good holds. Beware of friable exfoliating rock and hollow flakes, if you can get over the rock quality the climbing is quite fun!

Location

Meanders up Ruby Wall to the base of the splitter looking crack on the red headwall. The start is located just left of a large chimney system.

Protection

double rack from 0.1 to a #3. We did not take a #4 but thought it could have been useful. All gear anchors. No fixed gear.

Photos

Nice work dudes! route looks awesome Sep 23, 2016