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Routes in Ruby Peak

Billy from the Hills T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boom Town T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daphne T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Fins + Towers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge indirect T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Gendarmes, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left East Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pteradon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wide Sargasso Sea T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 64 total, 15/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 8, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Several fun exciting 5th class sections on interesting granite fins and (seven?) towers.

The idea is to seek out interesting climbing on or close to the crest of the ridge, and up and over significant towers - (not to avoid the difficulties or to save time).
- - . . [ see this route on Map ] . . - -

. . Of course it could be done without any sequences as difficult as 5.5/5.6, but that's not the goal of this route. If want easier/quicker, do the 3rd/4th class route just left of this. (or some climbers might find more sequences harder than 5.6).

. . The lower part had lots of hiking/scrambling on talus or sand, but later the talus scrambling started feeling interesting enough.

. . Closer to the trailhead than some of the other fun scrambles in this region. And the Mono Pass trail approach is pleasant with pretty views (one of the best hikes in Sierra (or the United States?).

. . Gives access to interesting 5th class ridge traverse to north and perhaps more so to the south ("the Gendarmes") from the summit.

Location

Base of East ridge at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.4097 W118.7707). This can be reached from the Mosquito Flat trailhead parking (N37.4352 W118.7470) - (elevation 10240ft / 3122m) by hiking up the Mono Pass hiking trail - [ see trail on Map ] - then taking a left turn for Ruby Lake - [ see this off-trail Approach section on Map ]. Then scramble/hike on talus around east side of lake and cross creek to reach base of ridge - (or around west side of lake, which might be useful for joining the ridge higher up).

Protection

No fixed hardware for anchors or intermediage protection.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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