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Routes in Ruby Peak

Billy from the Hills T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boom Town T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daphne T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Fins + Towers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge indirect T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Gendarmes, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left East Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pteradon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wide Sargasso Sea T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jim H on May 13, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The route ascends a ramp leading to a gully between Wide Sargasso Sea and the Central Route. Go straight up some discontinuous flakes to a broad ledge. Climb a wide crack from the center of the ledge (5.10), then move to follow flakes right past an overhang to a small ledge. Traverse to the right, underneath a flaring overhang, to a ledge with a detached pillar. Climb the pillar and move off of it (5.10), ascending cracks and dihedrals that are around the corner. Ascend the left arete of a dihedral and then traverse left to a ledge. Climb a hand crack on the gold wall to easier climbing and the top.


See topo pic on Ruby Peak main page.


Trad rack


Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
Thanks for the information. I am glad to be able to share information with other climbers. I will make changes and hopefully others can build out the page too.

By sharing information (and not trolling others like Richard did) we can all make this site and the sport a better place. Jan 12, 2017
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
I *think* we did this route (beta photo doesn't show this route, BTW. Somebody made a mistake).

Lots of loose, friable rock and the chimney (assuming this was on-route) was rather challenging as it pinched off into an OW. Was fortunate a rock didn't knock a tooth out belaying on P1. Definitely an area you want to belay off route. Sep 26, 2016
Jim - Correct me if I'm wrong, but I take it you haven't climbed any of these routes. I think it's pretty poor form to submit all these routes with verbatim descriptions stolen from the Secor book and photos (many of which are incorrect, BTW) that are stolen from Supertopo. I thought the point of MP was to go "beyond the guidebook" May 14, 2016