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Routes in Penguinland Area

Avian Flew T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fledged T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fledgling T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hufflepuff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Option Only T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prey for Penguins T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snakes and Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whirlybird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 33.271, -111.046 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 840 total · 15/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Mar 3, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This is the farthest south and most surprisingly rich in routes sub area of Raptor Ridge. We had originally disregarded the region of the crag for being too short and broken up. Closer inspection revealed a number of intriguing crack climbs that we established relatively quickly thanks to the close proximity to each other. Most were developed ground up, as with others in this area, which added to the excitement and satisfaction of developing the area.

Note that a single two-bolt anchor with quick-links and biners is set up in the same style as most of our anchors at the top of Penguins and it serves as the rap station for 8 of the climbs of this area ("Snakes and Ladders" through "Southern Exposure").

Getting There

Get to the Raptor Ridge with the main trail, turn right and hike uphill past "Talon's Grip Area" to the last prominent crag on the ridge. The left arching crack, "Sidewinder" marks the sub-area easily.

12 Total Climbs

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arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
There are currently 13 climbs in Penguin Land, all of them are trad protected. A couple have some supplemental bolts (Walk the Line has 3 bolts and our project, Quail for a While, has 2 bolts). They all protect very well with gear and this sub-area provides an exceptional area for trad climbing in LD rock. I will try to post the routes as soon as possible, but not likely before this weekend. Mar 7, 2014

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