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Areas in Calanque d'En-Vau

American Spur 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
La Saphir 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Petite Aiguille 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.
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Getting There

There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park at the big parking area at the Col de Gardiole (off route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille) and follow the red/white trail, about a 40-minute walk. The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance but more elevation gain/loss (according to one local map the hike to En Vau is about 1 hr, 40 minutes).

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Classic Climbing Routes at Calanque d'En-Vau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Saphir
Sport 5 pitches
Saphir La Saphir 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 5 pitches
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Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
One of the earliest areas to be explored, En Vau provides a beautiful and secluded (except for the tourist boats) climbing experience. Tucked away in a small valley near Port Miou, En Vau offers a variety routes just above a private beach with turquoise water. The most prominent features include Petite Aiguille and Super Sirene. Super Sirene may have been the first 5.10 in Les Calanques, put up by Paul Guerin and Gaston Rebuffet in 1941. The routes here are sandbagged and very polished after 70+ years of travel. A worthy venture. Sep 21, 2016
Evan Oro
New Mexico
Evan Oro   New Mexico
Climbed here during a trip to France. It is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've been to. The approach was a little tricky as we got lost a few time, but found it without to much difficulty. You can climb in the morning and late afternoon and avoid the mid day heat by swimming at the beach or crush all day on some of the multi pitch climbs. Nov 12, 2015

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