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Calanque d'En-Vau Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Calanque d'En-Vau

Falaise du Droite 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Grande Aiguille 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

La Saphir 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

La Sirene 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Petite Aiguille 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Plateau Castelvieil 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Rive Droite 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

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Elevation:	6 ft
GPS:	43.20246, 5.49794 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	22,803 total · 179/month
Shared By:	Gini Kramer on Nov 6, 2013
Admins:	Luc-514, David Riley Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Summer closures Details

See the following site for restriction during the summer: calanques13.com/acces-calan…

Description

En Vau is probably the jewel of the Calanques de Marseille. The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. Because En Vau is very popular, it is best avoided on weekends. The rock can be polished because folks have been climbing there for over 100 years. Route in En Vau are bolted, but, unlike other areas in the Calanques where the bolts seem to be about 3 feet apart, the bolting can be rather runout. So it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams.

Getting There

There are two approaches to En Vau and both require a bit of hiking. The first option is to park on route D559, which runs between Cassis and Marseille and follow the red/white trail, about a 90-minute walk. You can no longer park at Col de la Gardiole (as old guidebook claim), making this much longer than it used to be!

The other is to park at Port Miou and take the GR98-51 trail. This involves less distance and takes half as long but is more crowded and parking may be full on weekends.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Calanque d'En-Vau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 11 ● Saphir Sport 5 pitches La Saphir
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● Direct de Gauche Sport Petite Aiguille
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Directe de Droite De La Diagnole Sport Petite Aiguille
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Super Sirene Sport 4 pitches La Sirene